This fall marks a milestone for Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery: 40 years of producing méthode champenoise sparkling wines in the Finger Lakes. Back in 1985, the Frank family was the first in the Eastern U.S. to release a traditional method sparkler from the classic Champagne grapes, setting a new quality standard for the region. Four decades later, the winery honored that pioneering achievement with a special bottling of Brut 2021 Cuvee.
I will never forget. I had my first Dr. Frank sparkling wine more than 15 years ago when I bought of a bottle of Chateau Frank (as the sparkling wines were called back then). I had a bottle of the Celebre. It was fun and tasty rose' sparkler that I poured for some wine enthusiasts and another wine writer. It was a big hit. Since then I have had many of their sparkling wines. I have been a big fan of their program since then.
The Frank Family
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Founder
Willy Frank, 2nd Generation, Founder of Sparkling Program
Fred Frank, President, 3rd generation
Meaghan Frank, Vice President, 4th generation
Barbara Frank, Consulting Sparkling Winemaker, 3rd Generation
As is well known, Dr Konstantin Frank founded the legendary winery in the early 1960s, planting the first successful vinifera vineyards on the East Coast. But it was his son, who took over the winery later who grew the winery to a classic wine house, and founded the sparkling wine program.
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"My grandfather, Willy Frank, dreamed of producing traditional method sparkling wine utilizing vinifera varieties. He wanted to build upon his father’s legacy and take it one step further. Konstantin is credited with being the first person to successfully plant the European grape varieties east of the Mississippi. Willy wanted to be known for producing the first traditional method sparkling using vinifera," said Meaghan Frank. "While New York has had a traditional method sparkling tie going back nearly 200 years to pre-Prohibition times, that history was based on native varieties like Concord, Catawba, and Niagara, as well as French-American hybrids. Willy dreamed of producing wines in the tradition of Champagne and began planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier in the 1970s. His first vintage of sparkling wine was in 1985. From that year until his passing in 2006, he labeled every bottle with “Finger Lakes Champagne.” He used to say, “If it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, it’s a duck!” It was his way of showing confidence in the quality and style of the wines he was producing."
"Willy learned how to implement the traditional method process by travelling to Champagne, France and attending a UC Davis winemaking class," recalled son Fred Frank. "In the early years the winemakers at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery assisted him such as Eric Fry, Barbara Frank, and Peter Bell. In the later years Eric Bauman became the dedicated sparkling winemaker with consulting from Barbara Frank."
"I think because he had his first vintage in 1985 and the EU crackdown on place names didn’t happen for another decade, he was essentially “grandfathered in.” Willy was very proud of using the term Champagne because he felt that his wine was similar to Champagne," explained Fred. Willy used many of the best practices he picked up in France to make his wines.
"Willy was proud of his meeting with a representative from Champagne, France who tried to convince him to stop using the term Champagne. When the label update took place, the family replaced the word “Champagne” with “Methode Champenoise” in accordance with TTB guidelines, and added “Sparkling Wine” to the front label.
Mark Veraguth, Head Winemaker
Mark Veraguth is the Head Winemaker at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery. He arrived in 1989 as an assistant to head winemaker, Barbara Frank. He studied at the University of California Davis while working at the sparkling house S. Anderson Vineyards. Mark became head winemaker at Dr, Frank in 2004 and is currently on his 29th vintage.
Eric Bauman, Sparkling Winemaker
"We hand harvest to select and sort. Then, a dual sorting process, once in the vineyard and once at the press pad, this results in cleaner, purer fruit with better fermentation outcomes and higher quality wines," said Eric Bauman. "The Dr. Frank style is crisp and bright with no malolactic fermentation. Light bodied and refreshing featuring high acidity, fine minerality and subtle complexity, complemented by a delicate creaminess from lees aging." Eric worked at J Vineyards and Piper Sonoma, were he worked on sparkling wines at both houses. Eric began with Dr. Frank in 2005. Bauman has grown the program over the years. "During my tenure, production has scaled significantly, prompting the introduction of automated equipment to enhance efficiency and meet growing demand. We began the implementation of experimental varietals and blends as well as the adoption of new fermentation vessels."
"Our flagship range includes Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, Vintage Brut, and Vintage Brut Rosé. The Célèbre (made from Riesling) and Célèbre Rosé are our most approachable and easy-drinking styles," said Meahgan. "We introduced Riesling Nature in 2016, produced only in select years, and our Art Series showcases unique varieties, often made with innovative methods, such as Rkatsiteli, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. A sparkling Saperavi is planned for the future."
Brut 2021 Cuvée 85, a rare release of just 100 cases available online and at the winery. The wine blends 55% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier from the 2021 vintage with a final dosage drawn from the winery’s inaugural 1985 Brut. The artwork for Cuvée '85 was created by Keuka Lake local Trinity Rose and her company, Hiraeth Hollow. An absolutely remarkable wine with vibrant fruit and outstanding depth. As special a sparkling wine as has been made on the East Coast. There is also the 2021 Brut which is also excellent.
The DrKonstantin Frank Brut 2021 is also exceptional, with all the complexity one might want from such a sophisticated sparkler made from 55% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 5% Pinot Meunier. 5% of the Chardonnay was made in barrel to add levels of context and flavor. Fresh baked bread and fresh cut apple fill the nose, with notes from f tropical fruit and lemon curd. A wonder acidity and terrific creaminess ends with a pop of lemon zip. Exceptional!
Two other classics from this house are th Blanc de Blanc and the Blanc de Noirs. The Dr. Frank Blanc de Blanc 2021 is 100% Chardonnay from their estate vineyards on Keuka Lake. The grapes are hand harvested and very lightly pressed. Secondary fermentation took place in bottle for a minimum of 36 months in our historic underground cellar. The tasting notes read, "The nose opens with inviting aromas of toasted bread, lemon zest, and crisp green apple, complemented by a hint of slate. On the palate, it offers a profound depth of flavor, balancing the bright citrus and apple notes with a creamy texture and mineral complexity...with structured acidity and lingering notes of toasted bread and citrus."
The Dr. Frank Blanc de Noirs 2020 is 100% Estate Pinot Noir, grown on Keuka Lake. The grapes are hand harvested and very lightly pressed. Secondary fermentation took place in bottle for a minimum of 42 months in our historic underground cellar. According to the tasting notes, the 2020 Blanc de Noirs "offers a beautifully expressive bouquet of delicate white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of toasted brioche. On the palate, it is crisp and vibrant...subtle notes of red apple, ripe pear, and a touch of wild strawberries emerge...the wine finishes with a lingering, elegant minerality,"
The bottling of the Dr. Frank Brut 2021 Cuvee '85 is an historic bottling. It's a miles stone in East Coast winemaking. Another mile marker in the journey toward making the East Coast not just a curiosity, but an established wine region. And bolsters the reputation of the Finger Lakes as a world class wine region.
So Cheers to Konstantin, to Willy, to Fred, to Barbara, to Meaghan, and to Mark and Eric. Sante;!
So Cheers to Konstantin, to Willy, to Fred, to Barbara, to Meaghan, and to Mark and Eric. Sante;!