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Saturday, June 20, 2026

Two Impressive Cabernet Francs from Apollo's Praise

"Golden is the tunic of Apollo and golden his mantle, his lyre and his Lyctian bow and his quiver: golden too are his sandals; for rich in gold is Apollo, rich also in possessions."
- Callimachus, Hymn to Apollo: 

"I am the god of music!" Apollo cried. "I can certainly master the [instrument]. I must! It is my duty!"
- Rick Riordan, The Blood of Olympus

"Apollo, the god of light, of reason, of proportion, harmony, number – Apollo blinds those who press too close in worship. Don't look straight at the sun."
- Ursula K. Le Guin

Apollo’s Praise Winery is the passionate project of highly-touted Finger Lakes winemakers Kelby James Russell and Julia Rose Hoyle. In April 2023 they purchased the Lahoma Vineyard, an almost 20-acre site on the west side of Seneca Lake from grower Ken Fulkerson. This is the site that Kelby gained a his reputation from for his wines at Red Newt Cellars since 2012. Julia, a Hobart graduate, worked at Hosmer and Sheldrake Point and Fox Run Winery. She is an accomplished winemaker in her own right. 

The name, Apollo’s Praise, is a reference to the iconic song called Glorious Apollo that Kelby performed with the Harvard Glee Club as an undergraduate. For Kelby the name encapsulated his passion for music, wine, and the region. 
Production at Apollo’s Praise Winery is focused on Riesling and Cabernet Franc, with small bottlings of Chardonnay and other varietal wines. 
I tasted the Apollo's Praise Lahoma Cabernet Franc 2023 at the February 2026 Cab Franc Forward event in New York City, where I saw Kelby and Julia. Then I tasted the Apollo's Praise Picardie Cabernet Franc 2023 with Lenn Thompson of the Cork Report, Keith Beavers of Vinepair, Byron Elmendorf winemaker at Macari Vineyards, and Allison Slute of the Cabernet Franc Chronicles, at the Cork Report Cabernet Franc east coast tasting in May. Bother were impressive!
Apollo's Praise Cabernet Franc Lahoma 2024 This is Kelby James Russell's Cabernet Franc "from the Finger Lakes via a side jaunt to Piedmont!" according to him. This estate Cabernet Franc is a blend of New World bright fruit "through an ‘old world’ prism." According to the notes, this wine was "roughly handled, then both fermented and aged in a large oak tank...,Indeed, the wine does have a hint of the Piedmont to it, which is extremely remarkable. Lovely fruit, compounded with notes of vanilla, oak, and well balanced tannins with a good note of black tea and black pepper, giving in some good structure, while remaining very approachable. Truly, another impressive wine. 
 
Apollo's Praise Cabernet Franc Picardie 2024 is Kelby James Russel's Cab Franc from the famed Nutt Road Vineyard in Northwest Seneca Lake of the Finger Lakes. According to the winery, "the Picardie Cabernet Franc is named after the glass tumblers found at French Bistros the world over." Russell ascribes Cab Franc's success in the region to "the ability to ripen late in harvest without sacrificing acidity or tannin." This medium-bodied red wine, was fermented and aged in stainless steel. There were notes of bright sour cherry pie and black raspberry, a touch of plum, a hint of licorice. Lovely floral notes on the nose. The fruit is dark and lingers on the palate long after the notes of black tea and white pepper. A well made, and thoroughly enjoyable wine. Very, very impressive. One of my favorite wines of the Cork Report panel.

Apollo is rich in gold, and harmony - and in good taste. Try some and you'll feel rich too!