A few months ago, I was part of an interview with Karen Ross, the Secretary of California Food and Agriculture, Kevin Atticks, Secretary of Agricultural of Maryland, and Richard Ball, Secretary of Agriculture and Markets of New York. We covered numerous topics on the accomplishments and the stresses faced by the opportunity of craft wine, beer, and spirits on the agricultural communities of their states - the benefits and some of the troubles. A fascinating and interesting conversation!
The interview covers the current market trends, the controversial adoption of tariffs, climate, and pest/disease control. The conversation was collegial and respectful, but filled with interesting facts and figures that tie beer, distilling, and wine production to each state's economy through agriculture. Each of these states have substantial industries and provide jobs and revenue to the tax base and economy. Super informative!
It is a must listen to!
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David and co-host Carlo DeVito converse with three US state agricultural secretaries overseeing some of the most comprehensive and impactful programs integrating their state's adult beverage production with that of their state's farmers supporting them. Produced by Matty Rosenberg, Jennifer Hammoud and David Furer at Radio Free Rhinecliff
Post interview, David and I had numerous questions for the secretaries, He's some of the follow ups.
DOTE: Which farming sector trends may be impacting your adult beverage industries? What are your thoughts on market growth or retraction...are you hearing anything from the farming sector on if and how the market is shifting, and how might this alter what your farmers grow?
Karen Ross: Water and Labor availability are always considerations in the crops California farmers evaluate before they plant a long-term crop like winegrape vineyards.
Viable markets and long-term market opportunities are most important to assess if this big capital investment has profit sustainability.
As for market growth or retraction, I feel this was discussed a bit in the interview. The current down-trend is leading to a supply-demand imbalance that has already resulted in thousands of acres being pulled.
Kevin Atticks: An unfortunate trend is farmland succumbing to extreme pressure from development, whether it’s the need for new homes, schools, roads… Or from solar installations.
The commodity market is tough, and always in fluctuation. This is leading to a greater interest in diversification into specialty props, and those that can be value-added. A number of grain farmers are moving into specialty grains for craft beverage, production or milling, barley for malting. Many of our existing vineyards are expanding with new, more disease-resistant varieties.
Richard Ball: From a farming sector trend perspective, the interest in new “old” varietals, also known as heirloom varieties, in especially ciders for example, is still out there. Because of their complex nature in flavors, they create a new, different kind-of flavor for ciders. However, I think it’s important to note that it’s generally the consumer interest and consumer preference that is impacting and driving farming trends.
I think I can see a bit of a reset from anything new and different to a more qualitative interest in what’s coming. In other words, markets are maturing a bit, whereas before it was anything that was new or anything that was different, anything the market hadn’t seen before, the market wanted. Now, I think the market, our consumers are interested in new things, but they want to make sure they’re high-quality as well, and not just new.
DOTE: How have the new Federal administration’s guidelines and funding alterations affected business in your state? The threat of tariffs from your farmers and bureaus?
Tariff issues create uncertainty, and the possibility of higher tariffs do have an impact. The most significant so far has been consumer sentiment in Canada leading to substantially fewer purchases of U.S. wines. To what level are your farmers who’re crafting these beverages optimistic about what’s expected in the coming years for your state’s drinks industries and the agriculture supporting it?
Karen Ross: This agency and the Newsom Administration are committed to supporting this sector, and I hope producers see that. CDFA’s recently updated strategic plan makes a vibrant food system one of its central tents, and the definition of food system is quite broad – certainly including your constituents. Additionally, the state tourism agency, Visit California, fully realizes the impact and draw of agritourism and will continue to focus on that in its campaigns.
Kevin Atticks: The tariffs impact our craft beverage, businesses and their growers, since important inputs often are sourced out of country. Most of our craft beverage products are sold domestically. Broadly speaking, some of our commodity grain industry is exported, the markets for which are in flux.
Richard Ball: I think we are still waiting to fully understand the pauses in Washington as they relate to programming and funding. We’re still looking at the evolving tariff concerns, they change a little bit every day, but they hit producers on the input side as costs go up on their inputs and then they hit them on the market side as they may restrict their possible sales. So, it’s too early to tell but it is something we are watching very closely.
DOTE: What are the pressures and benefits brought to businesses attendant to drinks tourism (e.g. transport, accommodation, dining) and the support of these concerning jobs, workers’ housing, infrastructure expansion, etc.? If you aren’t predisposed to respond to this, please refer us to your department(s) which may be.
Climate disruptions, water availability, distribution shifts effect all of your constituents in myriad ways. How has your office met these challenges to date, and what responses are you considering or scheduled to implement?
CDFA has had a series of climate incentive programs in place for more than a decade and has awarded $675 million over that period. Our efforts are part of California overall climate goals to reduce greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs) by 40 percent below 1990 levels by 2030. Two specific initiatives to highlights are the State Water Efficiency and Enhancement Program, which has saved an amount of water equivalent to 740,000 Olympic-sized swimming pools, and the Healthy Soils Program, which has contributed to building soil health on 190,000 acres of California farmland and has achieved GHG reductions equivalent to removing 300,000 vehicles from the roads each year. You can learn more at https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/oars/
DOTE: ‘Regenerative’ is the latest buzzword for agriculture, especially for wine grapes. How do you view this trend?
Karen Ross: CDFA and the California State Board of Food and Agriculture have worked diligently to define the term over the last couple of years, so that it may be widely understood as it applies to state policies and programs. Here is the formal definition for California: Regenerative agriculture is an integrated approach to farming and ranching rooted in principles of soil health, biodiversity and ecosystem resiliency leading to improved targeted outcomes.
Richard Ball: I view it positively; I know it’s a new buzzword but it’s not a new concept for our growers. Every farm looks at how they can be more sustainable and how they can leave the farm better.
DOTE: To what level are your farmers who’re crafting these beverages optimistic about what’s expected in the coming years for your state’s drinks industries and the agriculture supporting it?
Kevin Atticks: Though the markets are currently quite tough, there’s overwhelming optimism about the future of our local craft beverage industry. There is growing commitment for sourcing locally, and that’s great for the state and its rural economy.
Richard Ball: I think our farmers and craft beverage producers love their products and their prospects for the products, but I think they are feeling somewhat cautious in light of the general ramifications of the transition in Washington, at this point.
DOTE: What are the pressures and benefits brought to businesses attendant to drinks tourism (e.g. transport, accommodation, dining) and the support of these concerning jobs, workers’ housing, infrastructure expansion, etc.?
Richard Ball: The cost of tariffs, the rate of inflation, and the availability of a legal workforce are very real challenges for all these businesses and will likely sober expansion, as a result.
DOTE: Climate disruptions, water availability, distribution shifts effect all of your constituents in myriad ways. How has your office met these challenges to date, and what responses are you considering or scheduled to implement?
New York has several programs that are geared to tackle these very real challenges—from preserving our natural resources and protecting our water and soil to mitigating the impacts that farmers are seeing on the farm from climate change. We work on all of these programs in partnership with our state’s Soil and Water Conservation Districts. For example, our Climate Resilient Farming grant program has enabled growers to come up with some real solutions on climate and water, whether too much water or not enough water because of the severe weather events we are seeing more often. These programs are ongoing and funded at a very high level here at the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets, particularly as our Governor has committed to a very bold action plan to combat climate change here in New York. In fact, we are proud that, just over the last five years, New York has dedicated nearly $125 million through these programs to on-farm projects that target these goals.
MEET THE SECRETARIES
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| Karen Ross |
KAREN ROSS was appointed Secretary of the California Department of Food and Agriculture on January 9, 2019 by Governor Gavin Newsom. In re-appointing Secretary Ross, Governor Newsom cited her unmatched leadership experience in agricultural issues nationally, internationally, and here in California, in areas including environmental stewardship, climate change adaptation, and trade. Secretary Ross was initially appointed by Governor Edmund G. Brown Jr. in 2011.
Before joining CDFA, Secretary Ross was chief of staff for U.S. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack, a position she accepted in 2009. Prior to that appointment, she served as President of the California Association of Winegrape Growers from 1996- 2009, and as Vice-President of the Agricultural Council of California from 1989-1996.
Secretary Ross grew up as a 4-H kid on a farm in western Nebraska. She owns 800 acres of the family farm where her recently retired younger brother, a fourth-generation farmer, is mentoring a new, beginning farmer in growing no-till wheat and feed grains, incorporating cover crops and rotational grazing for beef production.
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| Richard Ball |
Richard A. Ball, Commissioner of New York State Agriculture & Markets, a native New Yorker, has made a living in agriculture his entire life. His grandparents were lifelong dairy farmers. At 18 years old, Mr. Ball began his career in agriculture as a farm worker at a vegetable farm in Rhode Island. He later became operations manager of that same farm. After 20 years in Rhode Island, Mr. Ball moved back to the Empire State with an opportunity to become a farm owner. For the past 20 years, he has been the owner and operator of Schoharie Valley Farms in Schoharie, which consists of 200 acres and produces a wide range of vegetable crops, small fruits and greenhouse crops. The farm serves both retail and wholesale consumers through an onsite farm market known as “The Carrot Barn” and ships to brokers and restaurants in the local area as well as New York City. Mr. Ball has held a number of positions within agriculture and community organizations at the local, state and national level, including:
He has been the Vice President - New York State Vegetable Growers Association; a member of the
Board of Directors and Chairman of Labor Committee - New York Farm Bureau; a member of the American Farm Bureau; Representative for Schoharie County; a past President of the Schoharie County Farm Bureau; President of the Schoharie Valley Association, as well as several other positions.
Mr. Ball, his wife Shirley, and his three children are actively engaged in farming with a growing number of future farmers among the grandchildren.
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| Kevin Atticks |
Kevin Atticks was appointed Acting Secretary of Agriculture on Jan. 18, 2023. Prior to his appointment, Atticks was CEO (and founder) of Grow & Fortify, a firm that supports value-added agricultural organizations and the businesses they represent. Grow & Fortify published the first assessment of the state's value-added agricultural industry, illustrating the expansive impact generated by this sector, which includes wineries, creameries, meat processing, agritourism, equine and dozens of other industry segments.
Atticks was also the Executive Director of the Maryland Wineries Association, Brewers Association of Maryland and the Maryland Distillers Guild, and served as the President of the Maryland Agricultural Resource Council, and the Chair of the WineAmerica State & Regional Associations Advisory Council. Atticks also served on the University of Maryland College of Agriculture's Global Leadership Council, the board of Future Harvest and the board of the Maryland Tourism Coalition.
Originally from Bowie, Maryland, Atticks he attended Loyola University Maryland for his undergraduate, and later earned his doctorate from the University of Baltimore. He holds an adjunct faculty position at Loyola University Maryland.
Special thanks to the three participants and their staffs. An exceptional opportunity!