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Thursday, November 16, 2023

Where is Stephen Casscles? Everywhere!

Tell them, the winemaker is here. 

Whatever happened to Stephen Casscles? LOL. That's a bit of joke, for the dedicated followers of his expansive travels. After the selling of Hudson-Chatham Winery, where he was a hugely influential winemaker and grape grower, there were many questions as to where Steve would head off to. In the last year, he's been busy giving talks across the northeast, writing books, and been involved in making co-ferments, wines, beers, and ciders. 

LECTURING
Steve is a sought after speaker and has given a several lectures in the last few months. He's spoken multiple times at the Berkshire Botanical Garden, as well as at the Queens Botanical Garden. Has spoken across the north east in the last few years, including Harvard. Upcoming lectures include Arnold Arboretum, Peabody Essex Museum, Concord Museum, and the Alcott House in Concord, New Hampshire. 



A selection of photo of Steve from over the years. Lawmaker, 
grape grower, botanist, winemaker, lecturer and author. 
Stephen Casscles wears many hats.

BOOKS
Steve is also the author of GRAPES OF THE HUDSON VALLEY AND OTHER COOL CLIMATE REGIONS, which in now in it's second edition. It was considered an instant classic. He has become an expert in Korean wine, and soon has a important book coming out on vineyard maintenance and winemaking for cool climate grapes of Korea. He's working with Chungbuk Yeongdong-gun Agriculture Tech, the Centre for publication with a host of books on agricultural practices. "We hope to add to the Korean Agriculture publications on grape varieties with Young Kim and Yeongdong Wineries," says Steve. The dual language book is due out before the end of the year. 

GROWER. WINEMAKER. COLLABORTATOR
Steve is currently working with six different artisanal craft beverage producers in New York State. He's working with winemaker, brewers, and cidermakers. He's making wine, he's participating in collaborative co-ferments, and fruit beers. He's involved with some of the most cutting edge folks in the region, spreading the word of heirloom grapes and obscure hybrids, as well as the grapes he has developed on his own. 

DEAR.NATIVE.GRAPES
 


Steve has been working with  Dear.native.grapes, in Walton, NY, a small boutique winery run by Alfredo Alcantara and Deanna Uricoli, which is dedicated to growing America’s forgotten wine grapes in the Catskills. According to Alfredo and Deanna, "dear.native.grapes is more than a vineyard. It’s a love letter to America’s beautifully diverse species of native grapes. We strive to reinvigorate a facet of American winemaking that’s been under our noses all along."

dear native grapes, is primarily focused on three types of grapes: Pre-Prohibition, Contemporary hybrids, and experimental varieties. According to them:

Pre-Prohibition varieties once widely planted across the U.S. like Delaware, Catawba and Isabella. We’re also working to find and propagate nearly-extinct heirloom varieties from New York’s Hudson Valley region.

Contemporary hybrid varieties cultivated to survive harsh winters and ripen in short growing seasons. Minnesota wine grapes like Frontenac, Marquette and Itasca hold the keys to regenerative winegrowing in America.

Experimental varieties from little-known North American native grape species like vitis aestivalis. We are working with grape breeders across the country who have dedicated their lives to exploring the untapped potential of America’s native grapes.

Casscles in making wines with Alfredo and Deanna from grapes from his vineyard, namely: Burdin, Le Colonel, Annie Noir, and an estate white blend. All to be released in 2025. 


SUBVERSIVE MAKTING + BREWING
Steve has collaborated in the past with Subversive Malting + Brewing, in Catskill, NY. Zane Coffey and Max Henry Ocean have already released Heritage Grape Ale. It is a Co-fermented malt/grape Vierre, that has in it Heritage Grapes Baco Noir, Bacchus, Delaware, Agawam, Jefferson, & Eumelan. All grown at Cedar Cliff Vineyards. For more information on these grapes, see "Grapes of the Hudson Valley .." Flint Mine Press. Zane and Max make some of the best beer in the Catskills, and it's all locally sourced. They do tons of cutting edge product, and their relationship with Steve is a perfect fit. This year's edition of the beer is really something special. Much more integrated, this new edition now called HERITAGE GRAPE FARMHOUSE ALE is a seamless bright beer with lovely fruit over tones, and a lovely farmhouse sourness that's perfect. Can't lie. If they bottled this in a champagne bottle with a cork, they could easily command twice the price for this very special co-ferment. One of the best co-ferments in the Hudson Valley, and certainly comparable with Ian Barry's Pet Gnat and other sparkling offerings. 




BREWERY LAHOFF

Another partner in crime is the Brewery LaHoff an owner/brewer Andre Latour. Great beers!  According to Andre, “We are proud to introduce Isabella Grape Harvest Farmhouse Ale. This is a collaboration with Stephen Casscles, an expert of heritage grapes and wine making with over 45 years of experience.  His family has a history of  growing grapes and fruit in the Hudson Valley since 1870.   He currently grows over 110 rare heritage French-American hybrids on his farm in Athens, NY.” This is also the second year of such a collaboration. Andre has already established Brewery LaHoff as one of the most popular new string of small, micro-breweries, that's having fun creating inventive beers. Their Sour Cherry is among the best in the region. And their farmhouse ale with Steve is no exception. It's bright, refreshing, and easy to drink. Again, LaHoff could command twice the price if packaged in a capped champagne bottle. Another exceptional co-ferment. Also great to see Tara Raymond and her food truck!!! Great beer. Congratulations Andre and Steve!!!!





RETURN BREWING
"The other day Michael Swanson Bill Sprout, and I went to Return Brewingto drop off our Burdin 6055, Le Colonel, Annie Noir, and Verdelet to Bob Wise and JD. These Heritage and Cool Climate grapes will be made into a co-ferment beer, a/k/a Vierre.  All these grapes were grown at my farm Cedar Cliff Vineyards. Looking forward to what JD, Mikey, and Bob come up with in their version of a co-ferment," wrote posted Steve on his FB page in October. 

"A bitter-sweet day today, I racked the last wines out of our 1987 Italian Chestnut barrels that John & Barbara Perry Bellucci and I made so many of our quality wines in at in Marlboro & Athens, NY. The last wines racked out today were blends of Baco/Zinfandel and Chambourcin/Syrah that Marty & Pat Harper Wallace and our crew made. Bellucci and I won many awards from wines stored in these barrels, including Best Wine of the Show at the Dutchess Co. Fair not once, but twice in 1989 & 1990." Those 2 barrels went to a better place, including one to "the good people at Return Brewing Here, these barrels will now make some awesome co-ferments." 



HEARTSBY TRUE CIDERS
 


Again, in October, Casscles wrote, "A great time with Denny of Heartsby True Cidery. He came by Cedar Cliff Vineyards to pick up his "Himalayan Baco" (a Vineyard on a 45 degree hill by our porch) that he will use in his Cider co-ferment. We toured the place, and had his Barrel Aged Mulberry/Apple Wine and Cider. Also had our Hudson-Chatham Heirloom Red 2017, that is holding up well."

Heartsby True is a small-batch home cidery in Jefferson Heights, Catskill, NY. They make exceptional ciders and co-ferments from foraged fruit. Small, boutique-y, and independent, they are constantly on the lookout for wild fruit to use in their various ferments and co-ferments. After four years of production, they're in the process of getting licensed and hopefully opening a taproom somewhere in the area. "So if you have fruit (apples, tiny crabapples, weirdly shaped pears) on your property and not harvesting, let me know! Thanks for your time!" says Denny. 


LEFT BANK CIDERS


Again, during harvest this year, Steve posted, "[S]o happy to have had Left Bank Ciders principles Tim Graham, Anna Rosencranz, and David Snyder at our place this morning to collect our Liberty and Freedom apple varieties. Left Bank Ciders, these wonderful people will make a cider that we can all be proud of. In the future, hoping to make a co-ferment cider/wine with them."

Left Bank Cider is one of the absolute best, small, farmhouse cider producers in the valley. Small and artisanal, relying on foraged apples and small independent organic little orchards, Left Bank turns out iconic and delciious dry and semi-sweet cider by hand in the center of Catsklill, NY, just behind Main Street. Their tasting room has become a social gathering spot, with monthly poetry readings from Poets in NYC, a weekly farmers market, and a weekly one pot dinner on Friday nights by Michelle Williams of Mermaid Cafe fame. An instant hot spot for locals and Brooklyn transplants. The hip place to gather downtown, because their real, good, folks. 



So in case you're wondering what happened to Stephen Casscles, he's too busy to tell you in one shot. He make me look like I am standing still. So much fun to follow!