So a few months ago, I poured a bunch of New Jersey wines for a large number of wine judges in New York's Finger Lakes region. The judges were from all over the country. They were respectful, if not eager. There was almost a sense of being in Missouri - as in - Show Me!
New Jersey is a beautiful state. The hunt country of Hunterdon County (complete with horses and packs of hounds), the large farms of the Outer Coastal Plains, and the medium sized farms of central New Jersey, the Standard Bred horse farms, and vegetable/fruit stands throughout the Garden State.
Now, it's not like I don't know any better. I have traveled the entire west coast from Temecula all the way up through Washington, I've tasted wines from Michigan, Ohio, New Mexico, Colorado, Texas, and I have driven up and down the east coast from Maine to North Carolina. I've tasted in France, Spain, Canada, and Chile. I have been editing and writing about wines from all over the world, and I have been a booster for the East Coast for as long as I can remember. And I have made wine in New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania.
And I will tell you what I told the judges that day, "New Jersey is making outstanding wines right now." Outstanding.
New Jersey is Making Great Wine
Most people don't know that New Jersey is currently the 7th largest wine producing region in the US (it has never been out of the top ten!), and the Outer Coastal Plain AVA (OCP) is its largest AVA, home to 32 of the state's 51 wineries. New Jersey's other AVAs are the Delaware River AVA, Cape May AVA, and Warren AVA. The Warren AVA is 35 years old. The Delaware AVA is 39! Renault is one of the larger winegrowers in New Jersey, having 48 acres of grapes under cultivation, and producing 20,000 cases of wine per year. The winery was founded in 1864, making it one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in the country.
In the 1869s, Thomas Bramwell Welch, a British–American Methodist minister and dentist, moved to Vineland, New Jersey (which was then a dry-town) and began making grape juice. Large expanses of grapes were grown to help furnish the fruit for his Welch's Unfermented Wine. In the late 1890s he moved his operations to Watkins Glenn, New York. .
The most important thing to know about New Jersey wine right now? It currently hosts some of the best wineries on the East C oast - wineries that could compete in any region around the country. New Jersey wine has a lot to boast about. When it comes to whites, it's growing making wonderful Chardonnay, Albarino, and other whites. When it comes to red, they're making mature red with ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and some Italian varietals. Many are cellar worthy! They are producing complex dry rose' and they are offering some excellent ports and dessert wines.
Wine Writers Have Already Embraced the Region
And the region also plays host to a healthy wine community of writers and influencers worth following. They cover the beat extremely well. These aren't blind fans. These are well-travelled, industry professionals, who spend as much time perusing the Grand Tastings of New York City, as they do traveling the back roads of the state. People like Hank Zona and Valerie Stiver, Robin Swann Shreeves, Shelby Vittek, David K. Mullen, Kevin O'Malia, A Love Like Vine (Dan and Cookie), The Jersey Wine Chick, Paul Vigna, Debbie Gioquindo, Lisa Minshull, and many others.
THE WINEMAKERS
One of the most important things to know about New Jersey wine, is that the winemaking community itself now more resembles that of Washington or Oregon. A small community of well trained, knowledgeable winemakers. In the past, there might have been many amateur winemakers, especially in the pioneer days of the Garden State industry. Today, the winemakers are educated, smart, connected, up-to-date, and edgy. These folks would fit in any wine region in the country.
It started with a handful of winemakers John Altmier, Darrel Hesington, and Cam Stark (with Stephen 'Zeke' Johnsen), and the continued evolution of the Rutgers wine program and college enology programs around the county. Many have take courses, and continue to educate through programs available at Cornell and UC Davis. This new generation of winemakers in the state can talk chemistry and biology. They can analyze their wines in the lab and assess their problems in the vineyards.
The level of machinery is now more on a level playing field. Before the domain of wooden presses and wooden barrels, these new state of the art wineries have all the same new fangled tools available to those ion the west coast or in the Finger Lakes or Virginia. From up-to-date lab equipment, to the latest in advanced yeasts, including advanced micron-filtration systems, or crossflow systems, or even have reverses osmosis systems than can remove or reduce volatile acidity available for their use as well. So the playing field has leveled up. And the investment dollars wines, in making premium quality wines, has been matched.
Today, the quality wineries in New jersey, are fully manner and armed, and ready to be incredibly competitive.
20 BOTTLES YOU SHOULD TRY!
BENEDUCE AQUA PAZZA
A low alcohol wine spritzer made from already pressed grape skins. Fun blood orange and grapefruit with cranberry. Spritzy and fun. A game changer.
AUBURN ROAD GAIA
An elegant and complex Bordeaux-styled blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. Leather, floral and red fruit aromas, aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Winemaker is the stylish and hard working Jules Donnini.
HAWK HAVEN BRUT METHODE CHAMPANOISE
Owner/winemaker has a way with Chardonnay and with sparkling. His classic reserve sparkling of Chardonnay and Pinot noir is a perfect and elegant wine. Would compete in any region.
WORKING DOG CSBERNET FRANC
Without question, Mark Carduner's Working Dog Cabernet Franc is among the best on the East Coast. Big flavors of dark strewed cherries, plum and hints of other flavors and spice, this wine has the balance, complexity, and quality to age for a long time.
WHITE HORSE ALBARINO
White Horse Vineyards winemaker Seferino Cotzojay is a well seasoned, experienced winemaker who's turning out lovely and consistent wines from his home vineyards. This estate grown Albarino is a special bottle with all the flavor and acidity you'd expect from a fun, refreshing, zesty Albarino.
WILLIAM HERITAGE BLANC DE NOIRS
William Heritage Estate is a cutting edge winery run by Bill and Penni Heritage. They make exceptional wines, like this lovely, Blanc de Noirs all estate grown. Winemaker Kevin Bednar has taken over the reigns at Heritage, and produced some exceptional wines.
BELLVIEW WINERY TRAMINETTE
"Bellview sources 50 acres of grapevines made up of 21 varieties of wine grapes and produces over 8,000 cases of wine per year. Jim's youngest son, Scott Quarella, is the fifth generation of the Quarella family to tend to the estate," writes Paul Vigna, of PennLive.com. A great Traminette, aromatic, with big tropical flavors, and a zippy finish.
UNIONVILLE DRY ROSE'
Now, full disclosure, I worked on this wine, with current Unionville Assistant Winemaker Austin Sterling, who is now over-seeing production. Unionville was the first farm/estate winery to really put serious winemaking on the modern map in the state. Austin is young, but has worked under some of the best winemakers in the state, that have come though Unionville, including former Robert Sinskey winemaker Cam Stark, Stephen 'Zeke' Johnsen, and Conor Quilty. Along with General Manager, John Cifelli, Unionville is in good hands. This rose' of Cabernet Franc has the most gorgeous nose of cherries and strawberries, and a hint of Key Lime pie. The wine got wonderful reviews from Lenn Thompson and Elizabeth Smith.
ALBA VINEYARD GTR FIELD BLEND
The Sharko family and winemaker John Altmaier have been making some truly exceptional wines at Alba Vineyards. The make lovely dry reds and whites. One of their best buys is also one of the most aromatic wines made in the state: GTR, a blend of Gewurztraminer, Traminette, and Riesling. A fabulous Germanic light bright white, exploding with white peach, tropical fruits, and a bouquet of floral notes and citrus. Fantastic!
TURDO VINEYARD TURIS SANGIOVESE
TURDO VINEYARD TURIS BARBERA
Turdo Vineyards is located in Cape May. Sal and Sarah Turdo and their children run this small family artisanal producer. The Barbera (originally from Piedmont) and Sangiovese (the back bone of Chianti) are both estate grown. These wines are both something extremely special. A small, artisanal producer, the wines sell out fast. Get down there ASAP! (Turdo has just been sold, but will reopen under a new name in the spring).
TOMASELLO WINERY PALMARIS PETIT VERDOT
Tomasello Winery is one of the largest producers not only in New Jersey, but on the east coast. They produce and sell a wide range of wines. Their best wiens are sold under the label of Palmaris. Jack and Charlie Tomasello have seen the family run winery through its most prolific and prosperous period. Palmaris Petit Verdot, grown in the Outer Coastal Plain, is their crowning achievement. This a tremendous, deep, rich wine, with terrific fruit, great complexity and wonderful balance. Truky, an exceptional wine.
SHARROTT WINERY BLAUFRANKISCH COIA VINEYARDS
Sharrott Winery is a winery in the Blue Anchor section of Winslow Township in Camden County, New Jersey. Sharrott has six acres of grapes under cultivation, and produces 4,600 cases of wine per year. Lawrence Sharrott is the owner/winemaker along with his oldest son Larry. This wine has a fair dark red-purple-ish color. It's a fruity wine. Very juicy. On the nose there's dark plum, hints of tomato, and lovely classic Blau spiciness. On the palate there's a combination of dark plums and big cherry notes. Ripe cherries and dark cherry. The tomato and spices do come through as well. There were also sizable notes of oak on this wine, having again, received a program more closely allied with Cab Sav rather than Blau. This wine is big fruit up front, with nice, but seemingly low tannins on the back end. Despite the dazzling beginning, it's overall flavors are subtle and they keep on coming. It goes beautifully with food, and extremely well with grilled meats. This is a big Blau. Amazing.
VENTIMIGLIA VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Located in Sussex County, New Jersey, Ventimiglia Vineyard is located far from the madding crowd, tucked in a remote part of the state. This is small batch, micro-winery. Founder Gene Ventimiglia was influenced at a young age by the European winemaking traditions of his grandfather, Eugenio Ventimiglia. This Chardonnay is fresh and bright, and easy drinking. Lots of citrus and tropical notes, and a very light whiff of oak.
AUTUMN LAKE VINEYARD ALBARINO BARREL RESERVE
Located in Gloucester county, Williamstown, Autumn Lake Winery was established in 2012 with the ambition of being an all estate winery. Their goal was always to be a quality producer. Mark Hernandez is the owner/winemaker. The Autumn Lake Albarino Barrel Reserve was grown in the Outer Coastal Plain. The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged in French oak barrels for 6 months This incredibly lovely white wine exploded with notes of honeydew and orange peel and other exotic fruits. Green apple and lemon hit the palate followed by a zippy finish green apple and lemon. Bright, refreshing, and delicious. A very very exceptional version of the varietal wine. Very impressive.
CAPE MAY WINERY & VINEYARD
BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY
Toby Craig owns Cape May Winery and Vineyard. The current winemaker, Mike Mitchell, and assistant winemaker Jackson Sole, trained under long-time winemaker Darrel Hesington (Unionville and Cape May) are carrying on the tradition of tremendous port and refreshing dry rose, as well as excellent Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. Wonderful wines. The Barrel Fermented Chard is most impressive. Refreshing and bright, with lovely tropical notes, and green apple, as well as a whiff of toasted oak. Memorable.
CEDAR ROSE VINEYARD BARREL AGED VIDAL BLANC
Cedar Rose is all about a hands-on approach to growing grapes. Their grapes are never imported, but instead come 100% from New Jersey, with about 85% coming from their own estate. Dustin Tarpine and Steven Becker are the owners of Cedar Rose Winery. Their Vidal Blanc is aged, not in a French or American oak barrel, but in an Acacia barrel. Acacia is grown in northern France, and is usually used for Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc around the world. The result is an a well0rounded wine, with full flavor and great mouthfeel, and lovely acidity.
MOUNT SALEM VINEYARDS
LEITNER BLAUFRANKISCH/ZWEIGELT/ST. LURENT
Mount Salem Vineyards is a boutique winery in the Pittstown section of Alexandria Township in Hunterdon County, New Jersey, United States. Formerly a produce, grain, and dairy farm, the vineyard was first planted in 2005, and opened to the public in 2010. It is owned by Peter Leitner. The Lietner Blaufrankisch/Zwiegelt/St. Laurent is a most impressive bottling. It is one of the very best bottlings made in America of these German and/or Austrian grapes. It has big fruit up front, impressive body and lovely complexity. Each sip is a new discovery of flavors. One of the best Blaufrankisch and/or Zwiegelt wines made on this side of the Atlantic. Make yourself a roast chicken and some roasted potatoes and root vegetables, and get a glass.
NATALI VINEYARDS ESTATE NEBIOLO
Natali Vineyards is a winery in the Goshen section of Middle Township in Cape May County, New Jersey. Formerly a pasture for horses, the vineyard was first planted in 2001, and opened to the public in 2007. Natali has 7 acres of grapes under cultivation, and produces 1,800 cases of wine per year.
With his Natali Vineyards Nebbiolo, winemaker Al Natali has made a lovely medium bodied, floral red wine, with light touches of bright cherry, red currants, and stewed strawberry. Hints of licorice and slate. The fruit lingers a long time. Very elegant and smooth. Lovely balance. Had it with a cast iron pan-fried steak. And absolute perfect accompaniment. Fantastic food wine. Excellent!
AND A HANDFUL OF OTHER WINES TO TRY AS WELL. CLICK ON THE IMAGES FOR LARGE VERSIONS OF THESE LABELS.
