OK, to start, it's actually port-styled dessert wines. Port should be from Oporto. I get it, Thanks for your keen eye. But we all know what I mean. And until someone else comes up with a better alternative, it is what it is.
Secondly, full disclosure for those of you who don't know. I was formerly owner of Hudson-Chatham Winery and am currently the Interim Winemaker at Unionville Vineyards. I have been making ports and sherries for more than 16 years, and I have a long association with solera dessert wines.
After having sold my winery and Stroopwaffling around the country, I accepted the job of Interim Winemaker at Unionville Vineyards. Unionville is a legendary winery on the east. There were among the first to have a California winemaker (Cam Stark from Robert Sinskey Vineyards) who transformed Unionville (along with fellow winemaker and co-star Stephen "Zeke" Johnson. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Unionville was a shining star on the eastcoast and one the cutting edge of truly quality wine for the region.
One of the things that Cam initiated was a tremendous port legacy. He and Zeke, over the years, built a large vintage port program that eventually morphed into one of the best east coast ports, and certainly competitive in any region, bar none. Today, there are well more than 40 barrels of vintage port dating back to 2009. When I came to Unionville one of the first tasks assigned to me was to assemble the newest version of their famous Vat port wine series.
Vat #27, this year's release (yes, the 27th year release of this fine wine) is is a blending of 11 different vintages, dating back to 2009. I was given the task of tasting the entire library, and choosing the casks for tasting, and for the round of tasting for the assembly of the wine.
This was a huge thrill. I have long been a fan of this wine. And, having had my own 20 barrel sherry solera at Hudson-Chatham, where we made award winning sherries, I was well versed in this kind of winemaking. On the assigned night, I set up a tasting of samples from each of the barrels with General Manager John Cifelli and winemaker emeritus Cam Stark himself. The entire Vat series is made from the Chambourcin grape, a wonderful grape for port, with dark color, intense flavors, and great acidity (a secret, special ingredient for sweet dessert wines, because it provides balance with the sugars).
The discussion was far ranging, discussing the attributes of the oldest wines (providing fig and dark chocolate), the middle- aged wines (which provided toffee and caramels), to the youngest ports (which provided fresh fruit and youth). John and I of course deferred to Cam on the final blend. It was his baby. He knew these wines intimately. But getting to sit there, and listen to Cam's thoughts on each, was revelatory. After the selections and decided percentages of each wine to be added to the final volume, I set about extracting the liquid gold from the various barrels. And thus, Vat #27 was born. I cannot tell you what an honor it was to partake in the blending of this historic wine.
And of course, this brought to mind, what are some of the best east coast port-styled wines? Especially when the weather turns cold, and the dark comes early, and the holidays bring people together, and conversations range from cherished memories to love of family and friends. Where desserts and cheese boards abound. And where do these wine come from? Herein is a list of some of the best on the east coast.
Unionville Vineyards Vat Series (current #27) is at the top of my list, because it exhibits these fine layers, of fig, dark chocolate, toffee, caramel, cherries, raspberries, and a lovely balance of sweetness and tawny. An exceptional port wine.
Fox Run Tawny and Fox Run Ruby. I bunch these two wines into one, and suggest, that the three wines already named, Fox Run and Unionville, are absolutely at the top of my list for the entire eastcoast. Peter Bell is a gifted and talented veteran winemaker. One of the legends of the Finger Lakes wine mafia and East Coast winemaking in general. And he also has an extra special touch with port. Bell has created a unique aging apparatus to perfect his Tawny port, a heated wine incubator. These barrels average anywhere from 8-10 years in this superheated Tawny making hive. The room is heavily insulated and then stocked with fortified barrels and several oil radiators. The room is at a constant temperature of 85-90 degrees. While the wine suffers some heavy losses to the "angels' share" the resulting wine is unctuous and super complex. Few wines can match this profile. And there for Peter's wine is up there in a virtual tie for the top spot. His ruby is got more cherry and grape, but much more complexity than many other port wines on offer.
Miles Cellars Treasure Port. I first discovered Miles Cellars at the Finger Lakes Wine Festival. After tasting their lineup, the pourer asked if I liked port. I laughed. But my laughter soon turned to sincere admiration. Miles Cellars's port is one of those wines that are legendary in the Finger Lakes region - especially among the winemaking community. Miles' Treasure Port never disappoints. This unique ruby style, dessert wine is made from estate grown Lemberger and fortified with a brandy distilled from our own Cabernet Franc. And one of the best kept secrets - it's made by Peter Bell! Hellooooo! Absolutely fantastic!
The Port of Leonardtown is a wine from Port of Leonardtown Winery. The Port of Leonardtown Winery is home to one of the only cooperative wineries in the country--the Southern Maryland Winegrowers Cooperative. The winemaker is Lauren Zimmerman who began making wine there in 2016. This is a robust, sweet ruby red wine full of intense dark fruit flavors and aromas, with a smooth finish. A deep, dark, fantastic dessert wine.
Cape May Vineyards Isaac Smith Port. According to Tastings, "Dark brown brick red color. Aromas of chocolate wafer cookies, plum pudding, dried figs, and molasses with a satiny, crisp, moderately sweet medium body and a tingling, interesting, medium-length raisins and lemon cheesecake finish with moderate oak flavor. A rich, vibrant Port-Style wine with notes of chocolate and candied citrus" I couldn't agree more. They've been making terrific ports for more than a decade, and their status is secure with the most recent releases of the last few years.
Arrowhead Springs Lockport Red. The winery is located in western New York, on the Niagara Escarpment. It is owned by Duncan Ross and Robin M. Ross. This is a deep red wine, with tremendous complexity and terrific balance of sweetness, tannins and acidity. Lovely.
Lakewood Vineyards Port. This scarlet colored port has a big nose of plums and currants. The palate is velvety and warm with lingering notes of cassis and a hint of anise. The wine is made by Chris Stamp, a blend of 50% Frontenac, 47% Baco Noir, and 3% Vincent. A deep, rich wine, Super impressive. Lots of fruit, but tremendous complexity as well! Love it.
Stinson Vineyards Imperialis. This is a rustic style Tannat Port fermented in open top puncheons and aged in neutral French oak. Modeled after a minimal intervention French Port, the wine was made in as natural a style as possible. After the addition of brandy, it is allowed to slowly ferment for over a month before being pressed off the skins. Aged in neutral oak with good lee contact for 12 months to fully integrate flavors. A unique and exceptional dessert wine.
King Family Vineyards “7”: This port-style wine began as a straight petit verdot, changed to all-merlot, and now is back to all-PV again. The nose is bright red and black fruits with a hint of whisky from bourbon barrels. Palate: juicy, zesty red and black cherries with bright acid and firm tannins; nicely balanced. I have had this several times. Always a big yes. For lovers of Petit Verdot, this will be a massive finish to your holiday celebrations. A great winter warmer.
Ankida Ridge “Vin Doux” NV: This charming and complex port-style wine is based on the French hybrid chambourcin, and has forward, bright red cherry fruit and zesty acidity, which transitions to reveal oxidative complexity from aging in oak, adding vanillin tones and a rich, round texture with a lingering finish.
Cellar Door Winery is Maine offers up Vin Doux Naturel. This wine is 100% Marquette from Cellardoor Estate Vineyard, in Lincolnville, ME. According to the winemaker, "Hand harvested at peak ripeness, we fermented our estate Marquette grapes on the skins for 3 days. To stop the fermentation, we used a unique method called mutage, where a pure grape originating spirit containing 95% alcohol is added to the must during fermentation. Doing so stops the fermentation process by killing the yeast, which in turn has two effects; this process increases the level of alcohol while allowing the finished wine to maintain a natural level of sweetness – hence the name Vin Doux Naturel. Popular on the Mediterranean coast of France, Maine-grown Marquette – with its high sugars and high acidity – is well suited to this winemaking style." It's sincerely a lovely wine. Been buying my stash in Kennebunkport, ME for years. Great stuff.
Honorary Mention
Hermit Woods Winery Deep Blue. Technically it’s a fruit wine. But you wouldn’t know it by the taste.
Bursting with blue fruit aromas and flavors and soft tannins balanced with a delicate sweetness. Nearly a pound of wild, low-bush blueberries are in each 375ml bottle. A truly lovely port-styled wine. Super impressive. Also try the Hermit Woods Deep Red, a raspberry and honey dessert wine made with nearly a pound of locally grown, pesticide free raspberries are in each 375ml bottle made with local fruit.