As Kevin Zraly explained in the Windows On The World Wine Course book the three big reds that you needed to remember were Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir.
The idea was that Cabernet Sauvignon was the big heavy, that Merlot was a good middle wine, and that Pinot noir was the lightest of the reds. These three grapes were the mainstays of the red wine world. Yes, they were other red grapes that were popular, such as Syrah, Malbec, and other grapes. But those three were the most popular. The ones you needed to remember.
Merlot’s selling point was that it was not as big as Cabernet Sauvignon. For lose that didn’t want or like that really big dark fruit, tannic statement. And neither was it as light as Pinot Noir. It was a little softer, a little more of a medium bodied wine, that could be made in a variety of styles from light to heavy.
Merlot was a good middle wine and a great all-around choice for middle America. But like all good things in America, nothing succeeds like excess. Merlot glutted the marketplace and of course quality became questionable. While the market was flooded, Merlot was then T-boned by the movie Sideways, and Merlot’s reputation was sullied for a long time. Sales and allure dropped off.
That is not to say that there are not good examples of Merlot out there. No one is saying that there are not good Merlots in the marketplace made by quality producers. But the major houses overproduced cheap Merlot and ruined its reputation. Even Cabernet Sauvignon, still the dominant red wine, sales have slowed slightly as younger audiences, not interested in following their parents, have sought different grapes and flavor experiences.
Today, Cabernet Franc is the medium bodied red most likely to supplant Merlot. Cabernet Franc is a soft approachable red with great fruit forward qualities and lovely, soft tannins, making it imminently drinkable.
Cabernet Franc has for many centuries been a second fiddle. "The idea that Cabernet Franc is or could be a terroir wine — a wine that reflects its particular vineyard characteristics — comes as a surprise," wrote Mike Veseth in The Wine Economist, "if you are used to thinking about it as a useful but secondary blending grape." Indeed, Cabernet Franc is now taking center stage. The only question is - will it be for 15 minutes? Or Longer?
While there are some very lovely Cabernet Francs on the West Coast (they have produced some of my favorites in California, Oregon, and Washington), the really most exciting new versions of this varietal wine are coming from the East Coast. The variety and the styles of these wines make Cabernet Franc a decisive winner in those states.
The east coast seems to have made Cabernet Franc their champion red grape. It is grown in New England (sporadically), it is grown in the Finger Lakes, the Hudson Valley, and Long Island, as well as in the mid-Atlantic states, slowly supplanting Merlot as the most planted red Vinifera.
"While plenty of other grapes grow and thrive in the Empire State (134 to be exact), Cabernet Franc is impossible to ignore," wrote Kathleen Willcox recently. "From the Finger Lakes to Long Island, the Hudson Valley (and beyond), this noble grape is flourishing. There 638 acres of Cabernet Franc under vine in New York State, and it is the most-grown red vitis vinifera in the state."
"Across both the Finger Lakes and Long Island, the variety has proven remarkably adaptable, thriving where other red varieties can struggle," wrote wine journalist Reggie Solomon. "Its early ripening nature, natural acidity, and resilience to cool-climate conditions make it a near-perfect fit for New York’s unpredictable seasons."
Noted wine authorities such as Yannick Benjamin, Keith Beavers, Amy Zavatto, Allison Slute, Kevin Zraly, and many others have joined in singing Cabernet Franc's praises.
New York has made a big push for the grape. "'Signature variety' projects are difficult to sustain, often with minimal impact - but Cab Franc Forward picked the right grape and that's a good start," wrote Lenn Thompson of The Cork Report.
"New York makes great cabernet francs. Those from the Finger Lakes are particularly distinctive," wrote Eric Asimov in the NY Times. "They are true cool-climate wines, and the cab francs are generally floral and red-fruited. Only rarely do they hit 13 percent alcohol...The cab francs from Long Island are usually a little bigger and more darkly flavored. They’re certainly not jammy monsters...."
“I think cab franc can be that wine that makes New Yorkers confident to say, hey, I’m in New York, I want to share [a New York wine] with my friends! Or if I’m a visitor from overseas, I want to taste the New York cab franc,” says Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate Vineyard, one of the founding members of the organization. “All of all, we want to give confidence and give pride to New Yorkers, and everybody seems to be on board and excited about it.”
"Cab Franc performs well in the Finger Lakes, Hudson River Region and Long Island," wrote Dave McIntyre, "The homer in me might also smirk about Virginia being way ahead of New York in cab franc, at least in the sense of market identification. That would not be entirely fair though, as Virginia’s emphasis is more on Bordeaux-style red blends (in which cab franc may dominate) rather than varietally labeled wines. And there’s plenty of room for more franc in our lives." He's absolutely right!
In the last 15 years Eastern winemakers have learned to make a variety of Cabernet Franc’s from sparkling and rosé’s, to lite easy drinking reds to deep, dark sophisticated wines. The level of those wines, from New England to Virginia, from quality producers, has improved immensely during that period.
Today, there are many of these wines that are in fact outstanding in aroma, flavor, complexity, and balance. Recent tastings in New York, New Jersey, Maryland, and Virginia exhibited such wines, rightfully, with great pride.
One cannot forget to mention Canada, such as the Niagara-on-the Bench region, where cool climate Cabernet Franc is incredibly popular and delicious as well.
Problem? There is doubt whether there is enough fruit to continue to feed the beast and help the East Coast mount a bigger more sincere effort. That said there are numerous quality producers up and down the East Coast that are making exceptional Cabernet Franc.
The other issue confronting Cabernet Franc, here, is that while the states promote their individual wines, it’s clear in the overall, that wine makers need to take the reins into their own hands and start pitching East Coast Cabernet Franc in a collaborative way to drive home the idea that the region is the wine powerhouse it really is – especially in driving this point home with consumers and restaurateurs.
It is a very important moment in East Coast wine. The east clearly has an advantage at this point in time. They are at just the right place, at just the right time, in history, that they can shape their own destiny. If winemakers and owners act decisively enough, the East Coast’s reputation can take a huge leap forward. Confusion, refusal to join forces, and egotism will defeat them….not California. The ball is in their court.