Pages

Saturday, May 17, 2025

Another Kind of Cider - Hudson Valley Applejack and Apple Brandy "Drinking on the Edge" Podcast


click on the image above to listen to the podcast

Co-host Carlo DeVito joins David for a peek into the HV's oldest craft distillery with Derek Grout of Valatie's Harvest @ Golden Farms and what's likely one undergoing the fastest expansion with Andrew Richards of Millbrook's Shady Knoll. Both are heavily invested in the production and distillation of apples, a fruit first spread throughout and beyond the HV by the legendary Johnny Appleseed. But in keeping with the times, Shady Knoll and Harvest also fashion terrific whiskies from 100% Hudson Valley grains, topping out at national competitions with both iterations. Produced by Matty Rosenberg, Jennifer Hammoud and David Furer at Radio Free Rhinecliff at The Epicure.

This is one of the most informative podcasts I've worked on with David. Featuring only two producers, we have an excellent talk about the history off Applejack (usually, but not strictly, apple brandy aged in whiskey barrels) versus Apple Brandy (aged in wine barrels). But that is not hard and fast rule. Many American apple brandies are aged in whiskey barrels. It's a gray area. Listen to this podcast. Super informative.
Cornelius Applejack Distiller's Reserve is made at Harvest Spirits in Valatie, NY. The distillery is based on a family farm, Golden Harvest, which is one of the older and larger apple orchards in the Upper Hudson Valley, completely family run. They've been making Applejack since 2008! Made from 100% homegrown apples, they carefully distill their fermented cider twice in small batches, resulting in a soft distinctive spirit, both smooth and warming. ​Distilled twice and placed inside a barrel way back in 2010 and lovingly adored over the years, their Distiller's Reserve Applejack is a classic batch of our finest spirit, aged 11 - 13 years. Aged in 50 gallon American oak ex-bourbon casks at 60% alc. then carefully diluted to 40%, minimally filtered and bottled by hand. This is probably the best apple brandy or applejack I have ever tasted. Very much like Calvados. Light, delicate, exceptional, unique. An absolute must for any spirits drinker. Possibly the best Applejack/Brandy made in America.  

Shady Knoll Distillery is located in Millbrook, founded by CEO, Rick Kneipper. Andrew Richards
is the Farm Manager and Head Distiller. They are family owned and operated, grow their own apples, rye and corn, and make their Apple brandy from more than 120 different varieties of cider apples and other types of apples grown in their orchard. All the apples are hand picked from September through Thanksgiving. Their fermented apple juice is double distilled in their absolutely stunning gas-fired traditional French alembic pot still in order to maximize complex flavors. The brandy is aged for one to three years in new American oak barrels and then finishing for three months in used Portuguese Madeira barrels. The results are astonishing. The apple brandy is a fine, aged brandy, with big dollops of apple, vanilla, and caramel. A dry aged fine spirit, with only a hint of sweetness. An excellent aged brandy in any region, made with love and care. This relative new distillery is making terrific stuff!

Pommeau is from that great European tradition of taking fresh juice and inoculating it with alcohol to preserve its flavor and intensity. In my experiences, there's either good Pommeau or bad Pommeau. This is the later. Shady Knowll Pommeau is a blend of their aged Shady Knoll Apple Brandy (they don’t use unfinished/unaged eau de vie as many others do - which sometimes gives them a harsh flavor) and their fresh apple juice. Then, they rest it in used oak barrels for about three months. The result is some of the best Pommeau I have ever tasted. Absolutely spectacular. Fresh, clean, unctuous, sweet, but with a great acidity which keeps the spirit honest, this elixir is spectacular. Think Late Harvest or ice wine - not as sweet, not as in your face, but damn, damn good!!!

 

Derek Grout of Harvest Spirits, and
Andrew Richards from Shady Knoll