In December of 2024, I co-hosted with David Furer an episode of DRINKING ON THE EDGE about American Single Malt Whiskey. And to make it even more exciting, as special guest star, the amazing and accomplished Lew Bryson joined David and I. It was a terrific afternoon of tasting. Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate magazine from 1996 to 2015, and the author of six books, the most recent of which is "Whiskey Master Class," an all-inclusive look at the components that go into creating flavor and aroma. Lew has forgotten more than I have ever known about the brewing and distilling industries. He has been a friend, advisor, and mentor. As is a super all around great guy.
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Drinking on the Edge is a podcast adult beverage industry veteran David Furer takes you on an alcohol-fueled adventure through our drinking worlds near & far; past, present, and future. Fermented and distilled bevies from the mid-Hudson Valley to the world's most remote locales will be highlighted with guest appearances by many of their creators. Plenty of good info and fun to be had but ya gotta BYO!
In recognition of its December 18, 2024 inauguration as a recognized and regulated category, I joined David to welcome American Single Malt Whiskey with its association co-founder Gareth Moore of Virginia Distilling and an OG of the craft whiskey world, as well as special guest star fellow podcaster and whiskey and beer authority Lew Bryson.
The new U.S. Standard:
• Made From 100% Malted Barley.
• Distilled Entirely At One Distillery.
• Mashed, Distilled And Matured In The United States Of America.
• Matured In Oak Casks Of A Capacity Not Exceeding 700 Liters.
• Distilled To No More Than 160 (U.S.) Proof (80% Alcohol By Volume).
• Bottled At 80 (U.S.) Proof Or More (40% Alcohol By Volume).
Those are the rules. Lew and Gareth helped us sort out the development as we taste examples from Cedar Ridge, Westland, St. George, Balcones, Harvest, Ten Mile, Westward, New Riff, Old Line, Virginia, and Stranahan's.
Gareth Moore
Gareth H. Moore is the CEO of Virginia Distillery Company, a producer of American single malt whisky. Gareth is the President of the Virginia Distillers Association and serves on the DISCUS Craft Advisory Council and the Virginia Spirits Board. In addition to his roles in the spirits industry, Gareth is a Principal at Adelphi Capital, a middle-market merchant banking business that focuses on opportunities in highly regulated industries. He received a BA from Boston College and an MBA from Georgetown University.
The first ASM we tried was Little Resr American Single Malt from Ten Mile Distillery in Millbrook, NY, owned by the same folks who own Millbrook Vineyards. Some time ago, I was able to hang out with Master Distiller Shane Fraser and Distiller Cole Peck at Tenmile. Fraser is a Scotsman with 30 years experience making Single Malt, and who used to work at Oban Distillery. Great visit. Their Single Malt Whiskey is exquisite!!!! Shane is a well seasoned maker of Single Malt. Expert. And this Classic IV (4 YO) whiskey reflects it. Absolutely superior. The Olorosso Sherry (3YO) barrel finished Single Malts are also exceptional. Super!
Derek Grout and Peter Upstill (and their team) have done it! Harvest Spirits released their first Single Malt Whiskey from Harvest Spirits Distillery! John Henry Single Malt Whiskey. Oh, boy! OK, now let's talk about Harvest Spirits' John Henry Single Malt Whiskey. It's made using a beer made by local brewers using New York smoky 2-row malted barley. It's double distilled. Then aged for two years. Approximately one month in new barrels, and then the rest in older applejack and bourbon barrels, or what they refer to as re-fill barrels. The whiskey is named for one of the longest tenured employees of Golden Harvest Farm, where the distillery is based. It's has a light, lovely, floral nose with Sourdough bread, caramel apple, and lots of spiced fruit, with hints of toffee, vanilla, and honey. Super smooth, and very easy drinking.
New Riff Distilling is located in Newport, Kentucky. The distillery opened in 2014, with a consulting team headed by Larry Ebersold, than man who invented "95 rye" and former Master Distiller at Seagram's. The head distiller then was Brian Sprance. In 2024,Sprance was named the distillery's first-ever master distiller. This new New Riff Sour mash Single Malt (7 YO) was a big surprise. There's a big whiff of mesquite smoke. It's a big whiskey, that could even stand up to a nice chunk of ice (one big cube - not on the rocks!).
Old Line owners Mark McLaughlin and Arch Watkins met in the Navy flying EA-6B Prowlers. They now operate their distillery. They opened in 2017. Based in Maryland, Old Line specializes in American Single Malt whiskey. We tasted two samples of Old Line's whiskies - Old Line Flagship Single Malt and Old Line Single Malt Navy Proof. The Old Line is smooth and easy to drink. Old Line Navy Strength American Single Malt is bottled at a robust 114 proof, this American Single Malt is a nod to the traditional strength cherished by both American and British navies. This version of the whiskey exhibits all the same flavors as the flagship, but with more intensity and with a smoothness that makes the picture just that much finer. There's a bigger hint of spice up front, the dark cocoa is more intense, the toffee becomes brown sugar, and the cereal notes ripen into a sweet shortbread. For 'Neat Freaks' this is indeed the perfect sipping whiskey. It's a big chewy whiskey.
Cedar Ridge Distillery (and Winery) is located in Swisher, Iowa. It is the oldest distillery in Iowa, and is owned by Jeff and Laurie Quint. Jeff Quint is the founder and CEO, and Laurie Quint is also a proprietor. Murphy Quint (Jeff and Laurie's son) is now the Master Distiller and Director of Operations. Made from 100% 2-Row Pale Malted Barley, Cedar Ridge The QuintEssential American Single Malt is a very good whiskey. A lovely, lovely whiskey. Not over the top, it's flavorful and smooth. According to Lew, "This is the one that woke me up..." to American Single Malt. An exceptional, flavorful, but not over the top whiskey.
Founded by owner/distiller Chip Tate, Balcones Texas Single Malt Whiskey exploded onto the scene in the early 2010s. Jared Himstedt has been the Master Distiller for quite a while now, making his own mark on the brand. He is an excellent distiller. Rich, oily, flavorful, with big notes. A chewy whiskey to be sure. This is a unique whiskey. It's not a copy cat of other single malts. It's a completely different direction, in a class by itself. A great distinction. And so, so satisfying.
Stranahan's has been producing American Single Malt for a long time. An institution in Colorado, they have graduated master brewers and distillers like a university program. And they've been around long enough to have already developed a deep and impressive coaching tree (if I may make a little sports reference). Stranahan's Original is a big whiskey, with notes of cereal and candy. It's a great sipping whiskey. Super drinkable. I'd say, it was "dangerous" because it was too easy to drink. We also tasted the 12YO which was a bigger version of the Original. A very, very big whiskey, it was extremely complex, and delicious. And with a few dabs of water, this whiskey opened up like a morning glory in full sunlight. Wow! The nose. The palate. The finish. Incredible. I later tasted the Diamond Peak Caribbean Rum Barrel with a group of brewers back in the Hudson Valley. It was the first time I'd had a rum barrel finish where I said, "May I have some please..." It had a lovely soft finish, and the aftertaste was a combination of cereal and spun sugar. Very, very impressive.
Westward Single Malt Whiskey American Single Malt (90 proof) is created from two-row malted barley grown and malted in the American Northwest, fermented with craft ale yeast, double pot distilled, and matured in new, heavily toasted, and lightly charred American Oak barrels right there in Portland, Oregon. The distillery was founded in 2004, and they began making ASM almost immediately. They are one of the pioneers of American Single Malt. There's kind of meat at first whiff. But the orange orange peel and caramel come through, as well as stone fruit, vanilla, and toffee. It's cognac up front and malt on the back end. Excellent!
Westland Distillery was founded in 2010 by Matt Hofmann and Emerson Lamb. The distillery is located in Seattle, Washington. Westland Flagship American Single Malt Whiskey has been a main stay of the category for some time. The distillery produces many other small batch, high end expressions as well. The Grain Bill is somewhat exotic: Washington Select Pale Malt, Munich Malt, Extra Special Malt, Pale Chocolate Malt, Brown Malt, and Bairds Heavily Peated Malt. I especially love that they include the Pale Chocolate Malt. Big fan of that. This combination, as well as an extremely varied barrel program (combinng many different barrels) makes for an exceptional whiskey. Super impressive. There's a hint of smokiness too! Loved it! Baller American Single Malt Whiskey is an American-made, Japanese whiskey-inspired bottling from St. George's Spirits. It is indeed wholly original. Baller is one of the whiskeys that whiskey writers and whiskey aficionados make a big deal out of it. Super complex and sophisticated. There's a light maple charcoal smoke, and some sherry notes. The whiskey is aged in house-made umeshu finishing casks. There is nothing else like it! They "Baller is a category of one," states the company website. And they are absolutely right!
And of course (shameless self-plug) there' THE NEW SINGLE MALT WHISKEY which features American Single Malts, as well as from Scotland, Japan, and more than 25 countries around the world.