Recently, The Winemaker's Co-op hosted at even in Cape May at Hawk Haven Vineyards. There, I poured and promoted four of my favorite sparkling wines of the the state. Truly remarkable wines, exceptionally well made, with complexity and balance.
What is this organization? It is a coalition of five, quality-focused wine producers in the state that work to promote exceptional wines. The Winemakers Co-Op encourages the adoption of vineyard practices, winemaking techniques, and business strategies that advance our mission of producing the best wines possible throughout the state of New Jersey. Co-Op member wineries adhere to strictly enforced standards, ensuring quality and authenticity in each bottle they produce. All Co-Op events feature dry, or classically sweet wine styles made from 100% New Jersey-grown vinifera wine grapes.
Participating wineries include Auburn Road Vineyards, Beneduce Vineyards, Haw Haven Vineyards, Unionville Vineyards, Working Dog Winery, and William Heritage Vineyards.
First up was one my absolute favorites - William Heritage Reserve 2020 Vintage Brut. This is a classically made sparkling wine, representing the best of the world world practices. It features estate grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Handpicked and gently whole-cluster pressed. Fermented in stainless steel with a portion of Chardonnay aged in neutral French oak with regular bâttonage. Secondary fermentation in bottles followed by 33 months en tirage.
The winery notes read: "Bright aromas of granny smith apple, shortbread, and raspberry coulis. Fresh acidity and lemon zest in the mouth is balanced by a long, custardy finish." I'm not sure I can improve on those notes. The nose is incredibly aromatic. The apple, and some pear, come across. There's fresh lemon. And that creamy texture, green apple and pear linger and linger.
This is the highest expression of fine sparkling winemaking, and an instant classic fizzy wine for the east coast. Truly exceptional. Outstanding. Put it up against anything.
Hawk Haven Vineyards 2020 Méthode Champenoise Brut is 100% made from estate fruit grown in Cape May in the Cape May Peninsula AVA. The AVA is an American Viticultural Area located in extreme southern New Jersey. The 126,635 acres wine appellation includes most of Cape May county and a small portion of Cumberland county. The climate of the region is deemed humid subtropical. Grapes grown in the region include Chardonnay. Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Gris, Albariño, Dolcetto, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Merlot, Barbera, Moscato, Malvasia, and Viognier among others.
Winemaker Conor's favorite piece of the equipment is the disgorger, and his favorite wine is the Brut sparkler. This is a handsomely crafted wine with lots of power and pizazz. The nose starts with brioche, as promised, with notes of Macintosh Apple and honeysuckle. On the palate the first thing you taste is Bosc Pear, followed by buttery pastry, finishing with lemon curd. There are notes of green apple as well. This wine is an exciting sparkling wine. Very mature, with a hint of earthiness, and European in inspiration. Perfect for shell fish such as oysters, clams, and other seafoods, as well a cheeses etc. A terrific wine for those who love elegant dry sparkling wine.
Mike Beneduce is the owner/winemaker at Beneduce Vineyards. He's a clever, innovative winemaker, who not only likes to push the envelope (with a series of skin fermented whites, Pet Nats, and funkier wine), but an enophile, obsessed with the classic wines of Europe. And that carries over to his own winemaking as well. But make no mistake, he's an American winemaker. His whites are aromatic and clean. His reds are fruit forward and lovely.
I poured the Beneduce Vineyards 2023 Gewürztraminer Pet Nat with the idiosyncratic universal Italian hand gesture on the label. Part of his edgy series. It's made from 100% estate grown, hand harvested Gewürztraminer. The primary fermentation took place in stainless steel and the wine was finished in the bottle to create natural carbonation - unfiltered with no disgorgement or dosage. A true Pet Nat. The result was a wine with a tremendous nose, filled with tropical fruits, pineapple, apricot, and honeysuckle. And the palate is a light, easy to drink Prosecco-styled wine with incredible fruit flavor and a lovely, bubbly finish. The palate does not match the nose - but in a good way. You absolutely are convinced with will be a sweet wine - when in fact it is not. Just a delicious, soft white wine, packed with flavor and lovely, small bubbles. Terrific sipper by itself - or a wonderful mixer in a sparkling cranberry cocktail or orange Mimosa.
The Unionville Vineyards team manages and sources grapes from six vineyards, spread across three New Jersey counties. The range of soil types, macroclimates, and topography allows the winemaking team to craft diverse wines which showcase the often-discussed and hard-to-define concept of terroir. Co-winemakers, Austin Sterling (white wine program) and Eric VanSciver (red wine program) are a pair of young gunslingers blending the best of two worlds - Sterling has worked his way up from cellar rat, and has been there through several regimes - he knows the vineyards, the equipment, the traditions - while VanSciver has worked the west coast and all around the world. They make an excellent team.
The Unionville Vineyard 2022 Riesling Petillant Naturel is 100% Riesling aged in stainless steel. It's bottled and disgorged once and given a dosage. The wine is bottled aged a year. The resulting wine is an aromatic elixir that explodes with Granny Smith apples, lemon, lime, and tropical fruits, and lychee. The middle palate is lovely, with a hint of minerality blending with lovely bubble. Shortbread, and a creamy lemon custard are part of the experience. The lemon-lime and Granny Smith linger. An exceptional wine to impress with, especially before dinner is served. A lovely sipper.
All these four wines are exceptional quality wines that will impress your guests and your own palate. Poured in front of a roaring fire for just the two of you, or shared with friends and family throughout the holidays, I suggest you run, don't walk, and scoop up a half dozen combined bottles and enjoy!!
At a separate event, NJ Wine Expo, sponsored by the Garden State Wine Growers Association, held on November 9th, I found two more really fabulous sparklers. The NJ Wine Expo was a public event, held at Bell Works in Holmdel, NJ, was was hosted by Hank Zona, who interviewed winery owners, winemakers, and wine media, about the industry, and featured six bottles for tasting of more than 30 wineries.
Tomasello is the only fourth generation, family-owned winery in New Jersey. Long guided by Jack and Charlie Tomasello, the fourth generation is led by sons Brian and Sean. They produce excellent wines on 70 acres in the heart of the Outer Coastal Plain. Tomasello Winery Brut Rose is a dry sparkling rosé with hints of strawberry in lush effervescence. The cuvee' is a blended Rose' from 3 grapes: Chardonnay, Cayuga and Merlot. wonderful nose full of cherry and strawberry and tropical notes. A lovely soft flavor and a terrific zippy ending. Delightful with softer cheeses and or as a celebration wine for toasts and quaffing! Delicious!
Brothers Nick and Tom Sharko both run Alba Vineyards. Alba's 93-acre estate is nestled in the rolling hills of Warren County, specifically on the north side. Both gentlemen were excited to release their first ever Sparkling Riesling! Alba Vineyards Riesling Sparkling. It was bubbly and slightly on the Sekt spectrum, it was aromatic with lots of melon, green apple and tropical fruit, lively, and super drinkable. The wine was relatively low in alcohol, and exhibited not only fresh fruit, but also possessed a minerality that made it a crushable fizzy. Perfect for the holidays, as a toasting wine, a holidays cocktail like a cranberry sparkling cocktail or a mimosa, or great with turkey! A terrific, well balanced, and fun wine.