God, but I do love New Orleans. Great food. Great bars. Beautiful, interesting architecture. And fantastic distilleries. Yes, you read that right, fantastic distilleries.
Over the last 10 to 15 years a burgeoning distilling industry had been growing. Is if the outgrowth of the old farm winery and farm distillery movement that swept across the country over the country the last 30 to 15 years. And New Orleans, with its rich history of cocktail culture and distilled spirits, and its historic sugar cane industry, have now made a perfect marriage. They say all good marriages are made in heaven. The one between these Louisiana Distillers and their cane growing customs was made some place even better: New Orleans.
The Louisiana Sugar Industry
According to the Louisiana Department of Agriculture, Christopher Columbus first introduced sugarcane to North America in 1493. Of the U.S. sugar producing areas, Louisiana is the oldest and most historic. Sugarcane arrived in Louisiana with the Jesuit priests in 1751 who planted it near where their church now stands on Baronne Street in New Orleans. Pelican State sugarcane growers have been producing sugarcane for commercial purposes since 1795, and before that when the Jesuits planted cane in 1765 for their own use.
In the United States, sugarcane is produced in four States: Florida, Louisiana, Texas, and Hawaii. Louisiana is the second largest producer among them. The industry is made up of many small, independent sugar cane growers, averaging 1,205 planted acres per farm. Area harvested for sugarcane (sugar and seed) in 2022 was 497,800 acres, production up 1 percent from 2021. The average yield was estimated at 33.4 net tons per acre, up 4.1 net tons from the previous year. Production totaled 16.6 million net tons, up 15 percent from 2021. Growers usually deal with a number of mills throughout the state.
Courtesy of Oxbow Estate
How is sugar made? A series of three roller mills crush the cane and extract the juice. Water is sprayed to rinse any extra sugar off the cane. The raw, muddy juice is strained and heated. Lime is added to help items suspended in the water column to settle. (Lime is an inorganic material composed primarily of calcium oxides and hydroxides, usually calcium oxide and/or calcium hydroxide. Lime is added as a fining agent in wine and spirits, to soften or reduce astringency and/or bitterness, and to remove proteins that sometimes make liquids appear hazy, among other things.) The juice is then pumped through filters for clarification. The juice is then boiled in evaporators which reduces it to a thick syrup. Sugar crystals are removed through centrifuges. And the resulting molasses is sold as blackstrap molasses. This kind of molasses is used tin cattle feed, yeast, citric acid, and most preferably, as alcohol through distillation.
Distilling
The first stylistic choice that distillers have to make, is choosing from among a wide range of sugars. They can buy fresh pressed juice directly from the mill. They can buy crystalized sugar. Or they can buy any of the three different grades of molasses.
Fermentation
According to the USDA, the following are the different grades of molasses; U.S. Grade A (or U.S. Fancy) is the quality of sugarcane molasses that possesses a good flavor; that meets the requirements for Brix, sugar, ash, and sulfites as outlined by the US Department of Agriculture, that possesses a good color; that is practically free from defects; and that scores not less than 90 points when rated in accordance with the scoring system established by the Federal government. U.S. Grade B (or U.S. Choice) is the quality of sugarcane molasses that possesses a reasonably good flavor, color, and free from defects, while still meeting Brix and other levels specified. Grade B is usually graded out at 80 points. U.S. Grade C (or U.S. Standard) is the quality of sugarcane molasses that possesses a fairly good flavor; meets the requirements for Brix, sugar, ash, and sulfites, as well as fairly good color; that scores not less than 70 points. C molasses (final molasses, blackstrap molasses, treacle) is the end by-product of the processing in the sugar factory. B and C are most often used by distillers not using cane or fresh juice.
Sazerac
Certainly, the most famous of cocktails associated with New Orleans belongs to that of Sazerac House, home of the Sazerac Cocktail. According to Sazerac, “Sazerac Cocktail. It all began when a French-owned family company began sending their world-renowned cognac to bars (formerly known as coffee houses) in New Orleans. It so happened that this particular cognac was a favorite of Antoine Peychaud, inventor of his namesake’s bitters, and was used to create the original Sazerac Cocktail. By the 1850s, the first Sazerac House opened and served what many consider to be the first Sazerac Cocktail. Soon enough, locals and travelers alike were flocking to the Sazerac House to get their hands on this unique blend of Old World liquor and New World flavor.”
Sewell T. Taylor sold his New Orleans bar, the Merchants Exchange Coffee House, in 1850 to become an importer of spirits. Taylor began importing a brand of cognac named Sazerac-de-Forge et Fils. At the same time, Aaron Bird, the new owner of the Merchants Exchange and changed the bar’s name to Sazerac Coffee House. On October 2, 2019, the Sazerac House opened to the public as a museum and immersive experience that shares the history of the New Orleans cocktail culture, including the
Sazerac.
Bird made his "Sazerac Cocktail" which he made with Taylor’s cognac and with bitters made by a local apothecary, Antoine Amedie Peychaud. In 1870, Thomas Handy became the bar’s proprietor. It was during this period Handy changed the spirit from cognac to rye whiskey, due to the phylloxera epidemic in Europe that devastated the vineyards of France. Handy wrote down the recipe before he died, and famed bartender William T. “Cocktail Bill” Boothby introduced it in his 1908 book The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them. The Sazerac cocktail became a classic.
The current iteration, located at 101 Magazine Street, in New Orleans, is a museum and visitor center. Filled chock-a-block with cocktail and New Orleans history, and with three or four cocktails to sample as once goes through the highly curated exhibits. Great fun! Drinking was never so educational.
Today’s Burgeoning Distilling Industry in Louisiana
Today, the Latin Quarter and New Orleans in general is filled with restaurants and bars. Places like Commander’s Palace, Emeril’s, Arnaud's Restaurant, Josephine Estelle, Tujague's, Adolfo’s, Restaurant R’evolution, Dooky Chase’s, Brennan’s Restaurant, Parkway Bakery & Tavern, Coop’s Place, Galatoire’s, Antoine’s, and Napoleon House, and many more.
I ate at Brennan’s Palace, Mother’s, and Jewel of the South. Great times. There are many legendary bars. May favorite during my short stay was easily Jewel of the South and the historic Hotel Monteleone, where Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, and William Faulkner all drank. A classic old hotel cocktail bar and lounge area, with big sofas and comfy arm chairs. Absolutely the place for a round of classic holiday cocktails or a bottle of bubbly. Sipping champagne in the big, decorated rooms, was absolutely a world class experience.
In the 1970s and 1980s, the Farm Winery Act, first passed in Pennsylvania and then modified in New York, changed the wine industry, and was soon copied around the country. These licenses allowed for a lower bar of entry and began a long line of farm and boutique wineries that exploded the national wine scene. Likewise, in 2007 or 2009, the first Farm Distillery Act was passed in New York State, and states around the country were quick to respond. Although there already some small distilleries by then, these new laws enabled smaller players entry into the game. They also introduced the first farm-to-glass spirits in North America, and ushered in a whole new wave of businesses.
Louisiana is now looking to do the same. They adopted similar laws, and made provisions to foster a nascent industry. What better way to usher in a new wave of distilleries, than by showing how these new artisanal producers have links directly to the sugar cane fields and the mills? This introduced a whole new industry to the state, and cemented a terrific relationship between farmer and distiller in a state where they’ve been growing sugar cane since before the American Revolution.
More importantly, these new rums are not made like the mass-produced cheaper rums of other regions. They are not infused, after distillation, with more sugar, to sweeten them up to cover the alcohol content and lack of flavor. They don’t need to do that because these are spirits made form excellent raw materials by distillers trying to create a new wave of product that is flavorful and exceptional. As a pint of pride, these rums are mostly dry, with rich, deep flavors, that are sophisticated, complex, and well balanced. It is a young industry, but the quality is carrying it through.
Here are some of the exceptional distilleries making these new rums.
Seven Three Distilling Company - Seventh Three Distilling Company is named for the neighborhood where the company is located. Each of the spirits released by the distillery is named after a neighborhood in New Orleans. Owned by Jeff and Mary Ann Rogers, head distiller Luka Cutura makes exceptional spirits. Black Pearl Rum is 66% molasses and 33% evaporated sugar. All local sugar from Lula Farms. Also make great vodka, gin, and bourbon. Some very cool different aged rum expressions. One of the distilleries most ready for prime time with its wide array of exceptional line of products and excellent branding. Very impressive.
Happy Raptor Distilling - Distiller Richard Dubus is making some cutting edge naturally flavored rums and exquisite flavored syrups at Happy Raptor Distilling. Subtle flavors. Not too sweet. Incredibly well balanced. Silver Rum and their Gold Rum are both extremely well made. The gold rum, barrel aged is a fine, fine classy spirit. The Bananas Foster Rum, made with real, whole bananas is fantastic! The King Cake Rum made with oranges and pecans is exceptional. Loved the flavored syrups as cocktail mixers.
Borasso Spirits LLC – Absolutely fell in love with Borasso’s 100% molasses White Rum. Oily. Flavorful. Dry. Super unique. Also loved their gins!!! First gin was made with Magnolia, Cypress and Long leaf pine. Nice light gin. Super fun! Also enamored of the south East Asian Gin with Lemongrass, Star anise and Shiso leaf. Flavorful. Super floral and bright. Star anise and lemongrass are a nice juxtaposition. Ewan Willey and partner artist Laurie Fewell have created a small, but delicious line of artisanal products.
Restaurant Lula Distillery – The restaurant/distillery was really something unique. It is the result of a collaboration by Terrell “Bear” Caffery and Jess Bourgeois. We had a spectacular lunch at this unique New Orleans taste emporium. Pork Ossobucco! Fried Green tomatoes. Pork po’boy! Crawfish quest. Distiller Judy Allen (my new distiller mad crush) is magical! Originally from Michigan, she is well educated, super knowledgeable, and very talented. Loved her Rum – light, bright, and flavorful (and the aged rum she’s working on in the back – not yet ready for prime time – quantity wise – is stellar). And, the only spirits production facility with its own disco ball! Great visit! Superb!
Atelier Vie - Owner/Distiller Jedd Haas has created a lineup that changes with special releases. They typically have around a dozen spirits available at any one time. The company motto is “Liquor is art you can drink.” Their spirits include whiskey, rum, gin, brandy, absinthe, and more. Jedd is making exceptional hand-crafted Calio Rum from 100% fresh blackstrap molasses at Atelier Vie. The Rizz rice whiskey is a knockout! Loved the Absinthe as well. Great stuff from this small-batch, micro artisanal producer!
Porchjam Distillery - Great time visiting distiller Jason Zeno (formerly of Jim Beam – a refreshing hint of Kentucky in old New Orleans) at Porchjam Distillery. Owner Gordon Stewart is not your normal New Orleans native – he comes by way of Glasgow, Scotland. They are making highly crafted rums made from fresh pressed cane juice! Amazing visit. Cheramie Blanc Rum is their flagship product. They are working on an aged barrel product as well. These guys know how to make great spirits. Tremendous potential from this place.
Roulaison Distilling Company - Great educational tasting at Roulaison Distilling with owner/distiller Andrew Lohfeld (formerly of King’s County Distillery in Brooklyn). It's worth noting Andrew is the President of the Louisiana Distiller's Guild. He is also an incredibly competent artisan. He made a rum from fresh made cane juice and a first run blackstrap. Incredibly well thought out. All his rums are pot stilled, for extra flavor which comes through. Their Roulaison Rum is impressive, as is their Roulaison Overproof. Roulaison Barrel Aged Reserve is a fin, brown spirit, worthy of a rocks glass or snifter. However, one of the absolutely most impressive bottles of the entire tour was the Roulaison Bottled-In-Bond, a big, well rounded barrel aged spirit, that any whiskey lover will immediately fall in love with. Maybe the bottle of the tour!
New Orleans Distillers - Great visit with Adrie De Waal Master Distiller. Absolutely loved her. A former winemaker from South Africa, she can talk winemaking and distilling all day long. I was absolutely enthralled with her. Loved the New Orleans Rum, a silver spirit, pot still made, using grade A and B molasses. Rum was lovely. Aged rims were spectacular! New Orleans Gold Rum, Navy Rum, and 151 Rum were amazing. Fun Mermaid Spiced Rum! Also loved the Rye whiskey -pine-y, caramel-y, and smooth. Loved it. Fun visit. A fully developed line, just waiting to explode.
Oxbow Estate Rum – I did not visit the distillery, but I tasted their products numerous times during my stay in New Orleans. This is a sophisticated line of products. Since 1859, president Olivia Stewart’s family has owned and operated their Louisiana cane farm and sugar mill, raising sugarcane on the banks of the Mississippi River oxbow in Pointe Coupée, Louisiana. This distillery is literally field-to-glass, estate distilled and aged quality spirits. What Hillrock Estate is to Rye and Single Malt Whiskey, Oxbow is to Rum. The flagship brand is the Oxbow Estate Rum Small Batch. Weighing in at 90 proof, this incredibly complex is a jolt to the taste buds for anyone thinking their about to drink some simple silver rum. Then there is the even smoother Oxbow Estate Rum Rhum Louisiane which tops out at 99 proof. Even smoother and more delicious, this spirit is like a fine European eau de vie. And then there is the Oxbow Estate Rum Barrel Aged at 95 Proof. This is lie a cross between a medium-to-light whiskey and a fine cognac. Rich, complex, and impressive. Like her spirits, Stewart is a force to be reckoned with. Vivacious and impressive, she is a mover and shaker in the burgeoning industry. Olivia is the Vice President of the Louisiana Distiller's Guild. Made from 100% Grade A sugarcane molasses, these are very fine-sipping rums, as well as great cocktail mixers.
Bayou Terrebone Distillers – Hardscrabble Farm dates back to 1880. Grandma Lilllie, Houma Louisiana’s 1st Mardi Gras Queen and a moonshiner, lit a fire under a 6-gallon copper pot still, igniting a family tradition back in the day. Today, owner/distiller Noah Lirette led a wonderful tasting at this family owned distillery. The distillery’s Hardscrabble Gulf Coast Rum is made from 80% raw sugar/20% molasses. Ot’s Pot still made, and comes in at 84 proof. Is terrific. But I loved the Hogshead Aged Gulf Coast Rum, barrel aged for 1 year 3 months in 10 ten gallon ex-bourbon barrels. Super smooth. Loved it. Absolute another one of the best bottles of the tour. Their Moonshine was from 80% traditional corn mash. Super smooth, laced with buttered popcorn and caramel. Absolutely impressive!!! Bourbon was made with the same mash. Great job!
Wildcat Brothers Distilling – Among all the people I met along my brief travels in Louisiana, Tait Martin, of Wildcat Brothers Distilling was the most entertaining, and the one I got on with the best. He and I had very similar experiences and outlooks on life, craft beverages, and everything else in general. I think there were possibly as many differences, but we connected on enough ground, that found him to be fascinating. The farm in owned by the Meaux family. In the 1950’s Gabriel 'Clerfe Meaux bought 750 acres of sugar cane land and began farming in Southern Louisiana. Today, David Meaux is the distiller and Tait Martin, an old college fraternity brother, is CEO, focusing on marketing and sales. Meaux makes French-styled rum, and the results are fantastic. Sweet Crude Rum is their flagship silver/white rum, which is bright and flavorful, and dry. Noire is is their barrel aged product. However, it is not made using bourbon or wine barrels. Instead the barrels are made from fruit trees grown on the family farm The result is an exquisite tasting dark, aged rum that is like no other. Another one of my top bottles of my tour. Also terrific was Valor Rations Rum, a Navy-styled rum. Super smooth and easy to drink. A great sipper or a solid mixer. Loved the Fifolet, the distillery’s Spiced Flavored Rum, with warming notes, as well as Coffee, vanilla, and cinnamon make this something special!!! Not a huge Spice Rum fan, but I loved this!
Bayou Rum Distillery - In 2011, Trey Litel and two childhood friends started Bayou Rum Distillery. They started shipping Bayou Rum in May 2013, and by the end of 2015, Bayou Rum could be found in Louisiana, Texas, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida and Maryland; Arizona, Colorado, Iowa, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, Nevada, New York, Pennsylvania and South Carolina. They were in 23 states by 2017. Bayou Rum has earned its title of #1 Craft Rum in America*. Today, Bayou Rum is available throughout the United States.
Their flagship rum in the Bayou Copper Pot Still White Rum is aged for 4 months before bottling. Their molasses comes from the oldest family-owned and operated sugar mill in the United States. They also produce a Spiced Rum, Bayou Reserve, Bayou Single Batch, and the Bayou XO Mardi Gras. Two favorites were the XO Mardi Gras is matured in bourbon barrels for up to 5 years and finished for 1 extra year in Spanish Pedro Ximenez sherry barrels. A beautiful deep mahogany, this is a luxurious older, barrel aged rum. Another best bottle! The Reserve and Single Barrel are also very special. Exceptional rums of the highest level.
Himel
Celebration Distillation was founded by artist James Michalopoulos. The distillery suffered a fire in May 2023 (and the tasting room has not yet reopened as of this writing). Anthony Whiting is the Distiller. Michalopoulos is one of the most well-known artists in New Orleans. Old New Orleans Crystal Rum is their classic white rum, that is crisp, with bright notes of dried fruit. The Old New Orleans Amber Rum is aged 2 to 4 years in American white oak bourbon barrels, finished with cherry and white oak. Notes of whiskey, dark chocolate, and dried fruit. Old New Orleans Cajun Spice Rum is a fun, juicy blend of 7 spices: Chicory, Clove, Cayenne, Allspice, Nutmeg, Ginger, and Cinnamon. And their Old New Orleans 121 Proof Rum. I enjoyed their Amber Rum especially.
Unfortunately, I didn't get to visit the distillery, but a special 'Thank you!' to Barry Himel of the Dickie Brennan's Group for including it in our tutored tasting at Dickie Brennan's Palace Cafe on Canal Street.
Sugarfield Spirits - Brothers Thomas and Andrew Soltau, owners of Surgarfield Spirits, located in Gonzales, Louisiana, held their grand opening on January 4, 2020. They offer a rum, an Aged Rum, and a spiced rum, as well as bourbon, vodka, gin, and a wide arrange of liqueurs. Sugarfield Rum is made in the French, agricole-style, meaning it is originally distilled from freshly squeezed sugarcane juice rather than molasses. This is a lovely, citrus styled, dry white rum, perfect for cocktails. Excellent. Their Aged Rum (second batch) is a blend of 9 different barrels. According to the distillery, "8 of the barrels are from used Double Oak Bourbon barrels from 2 different distilleries that lend great flavor to the Rum. The 9th barrel is 100% molasses rum aged in a red port barrel...."
The Future
The future for Louisiana Rum is bright. In the coming years, there is no doubt that true craft beverage aficionados will prefer Louisiana Farm-to-Glass rums. This group of distillers knows what it is doing, and these are true craft spirits, that are exceptional. Not cloying by later egregious additions of sugar to over come their defects, these are fantastic dry spirits to be appreciated and savored. A great new find in the world of craft spirits.
Make sure you pick up a bottle of Louisiana Rum when ever you can. You will not be disappointed!
Special thanks to David Furer, wine and spirits expert, who created and executed this first-ever group media tour on the Louisiana Distiller's Guild's and the state's behalf.
CLICK HERE for more information about the Louisiana Distiller's Guild.