In the last few months, more than a few people have asked me what the new winery was named that’s growing in Claverack, in Columbia County, here in the Hudson Valley. It is a 182-acre estate on County Route 27 by the old Hawk Orchards barn.
The bad news, is that Columbia County, which now has more than 12 breweries, 2 cideries, 6 wineries, and 5 distilleries (that’s 25 craft beverage businesses), is not getting another winery. Instead, they are getting a very promising, world class estate distillery. Formally known as "Drumlin Field" it is now known as Klocke Estate.
The owner, whom I have met, and corresponded with, is John Frishkopf, of the international financial industry, from Boston. He and his investment partners acquired the land for $1.8 million in 2018. But the total “in” for the project will be approximately $6 million.
“The $6 million-plus project was approved by the town planning board; the state committed up to $400,000 in tax credits to create 25 jobs; the Columbia County Industrial Development Agency approved sales tax exemptions; and construction was expected to begin after a longer-than-expected design process,” reported the Albany Business Journal.
Unfortunately, COVID interrupted their plans. "We hit the pause button on the building," Frishkopf told the Journal.
Still, 25 acres of cider apples and 15 acres of grapes were planted. The plan is to create a great, high-end, high-quality grape and apple brandy producer here on the east coast. Klocke Estate is intended to be a luxury brand. The brandies will be fermented in stainless steel tanks, and distilled using classic French Alembic Charentais. The distillate will be cellared in French oak barrels.
The establishing of Klocke, speaks to a larger issue. This does follow a trend. With whiskey springing up like fountains everywhere else, late comers to the distilling industry, needed to find a new game. The whiskey market is saturated. The few luxury markets left in spirits in the US are rum, brandy, and Eau de vie. The American luxury level brandy producers include Tate Distillery, Osocalis, Argonaut, Copper & Kings, Bhakta, and others. Coppola is producing an excellent brandy labeled Agnesi 1799 Brandy which is made by sourcing brandies from all over California.
Columbia and Dutchess counties already feature farm distilleries making brandies and whiskies: Columbia County’s Harvest Spirits makes numerous estate brandies, including pear, and their especially wonderful Cornelius Applejack; and Dutchess County’s Branchwater Farms of Milan who is also making farm-to-glass whiskey and brandy. And even in Columbia County, aside from Harvest Spirits, which is all estate, is the super-premium, Hillrock Estate luxury brand, which has certainly wowed the whiskey world, and practically invented the luxury grain-to-glass category. Two of the above, Tate and Bhakta, are former whiskey distillery owners of Balcones and WhistlePig respectively, who have traded corn, rye, and barley for grapes, apples, and pears. But the high-end brandy game still seems up for grabs.
Why here? “"I felt like the Hudson Valley was poised to become the East's equivalent of Sonoma [California]," Frishkopf said. "There's a tremendous amount of farm-to-table businesses and very good growing conditions for grapes and some of the best apples in the world."
“You see the Catskill range to the west, the Taconics to the east, you get an idea of the magnitude of the experience,” said Frishkopf. “We want to create a world-class brandy, and of any place in the U.S., this is the place to do it.”
Fishkopf is close friends with Dan Farber of Osocalis Distillery in California. It is no surprise that Klocke will specialize in brandy.
Mr. Frishkopf told the Town of Claverack Planning Board that he consulted with Farber who has been involved in the distillery business for more than 30 years for advice on his plan. Frishkopf explained that Mr. Farber, who was raised in Craryville (a neighboring town in Columbia County), had agreed to help with the formation of the distillery. Frishkopf’s team also included several financial advisors and that local apple farm owner Russell Bartolotta of Klein Kill Farm would advise on the implementation of the orchards and apple supply until the new orchard produced viable fruit.
Working with internationally renowned designer Ken Fulk, Klocke Estate’s goal will be to offer a luxurious and immersive experience, and produce an elevated Hudson Valley Brandy that will be acclaimed and treasured.
The word "Klocke" is a middle-Dutch word for clock. "It takes time to create a great brandy," Frishkopf told the Journal. "It also harkens back to the Dutch roots of the area."
As we speak, the large, 12,000 square foot tasting room are being completed at Klocke, and hospitality positions are being filled. Klocke is supposed to be to brandy what Hillrock is to whiskey. That's great news.
I’m hoping to visit early this fall and have more on Klocke, but in the meantime, brush up on your brandy terminology.