Cold Duck is the battered rented mule of the wine world. The Rodney Dangerfield of sparkling wine. Numerous "wine writers" and "influencers" have used it as a punch line like Mohammed Ali beat Jerry Quarry (another punchline victim). But there are a number of exceptional sparkling reds being made across the US these days, that are cutting edge, and absolutely impressive.
Cold Duck has a fascinating history. The original wine was based on a German legend involving Prince Clemens Wenceslaus of Saxony. Legend has it, he ordered the blending of champagne with unfinished bottles of wine. The drink, as it evolved in Germany, became standardized as one part wine from the Mosel region, one part wine from the Rheinhessen region, and one part sparkling wine, seasoned with lemons and balm mint. The final product was christened Kaltes Ende ("cold end" in German). It was later altered to the similar-sounding term Kalte Ente meaning "cold duck". And thus it became known as Cold Duck.
Harold Borgman, the owner of Pontchartrain Wine Cellars in Detroit, Michigan, invented the American version in 1937. He blended a cocktail made from champagne and sparkling burgundy into a hollow-stem wine glass. In the US, the Michigan winery Bronte Champagnes and Wine was the first to bottle Cold Duck in the 1960s and 1970s. Bronte was sold to Tabor Hill Winery in 1984.
According to Wikipedia, "During the early 1970s, the South Australian company Orlando Wines produced a sparkling red wine labelled 'Cold Duck'. Between 1971 and 1974, there were a number of trademark registrations, including Cold Turkey, Chicken, Gander, and Stork. In the early 1970s, Glenvale Vineyards and Montana Vineyards in New Zealand each produced wine under the name 'Cold Duck'."
In the 1970s it became very popular, and was epitomized by Andre Cold Duck that was scene on bad television commercials across console, cabinet television sets across America. But the haters out there are beating up on poor Cold Duck.
"It’s hard to believe that at one time this sparkling wine was touted as the best selling “Champagne” in America. Yes, yes, I was one of those High Schooler’s who “scored” a bottle of Cold Duck to sip before a dance or a football game. I remember that syrupy sweet taste and If memory serves me right, it came back up just as horribly as it did going down!” wrote Kelly Ulrickson-Fugina on her blog Sipping In California. “Well guess what folks…Cold Duck still exists and has surfaced at over 100 local stores in Sacramento. So, if you haven’t tried it, DON”T! But if you just want to take a trip down memory lane, GOOD LUCK, and don’t forget the Advil before you go to bed!”
“When I was a kid, Cold Duck was a novel thing that made its appearance at our house twice a year. On Christmas Eve — which was my brother’s and great-uncle J.D.’s shared birthday celebration — and on New Year’s Eve, a sip of Cold Duck was allowed even for the youngsters,” Dina Hardin wrote for the Magnolia Banner News. "I honestly think the grown-ups let us have it because it tickled them to watch us make crazy faces and run to spit it out in the sink. It still nauseates me a bit just to think about Cold Duck. Eww!"
And then recently, there was Ray Isle (whom I love). But he too took a pot shot, in a recent article about Champagne, "OK, there was also Andre' Cold Duck, but let's not go there. I'm not even sure what it is."
But I am here to say, just because it's red and sparkling, doesn't make it "Cold Duck." Firstly, Cold Duck is meant to be a holiday wine, a special occasion wine. It's not meant to go with lobster. It's a semi-sweet wine (originally made with spices - like a sparkling Wassail?), with some nice tannins, that can be drank as a sipper. It's not meant to be a fine wine. It's what some in the industry call a porch sipper. And it's fun with a cheese plate.
And many opinions today are written, as above, from memories of childhood. Hell, I didn't like anything with alcohol back then. Not cough syrup. Not Champagne. Not Cold Duck. Not even dessert wine. Nothing.
Secondly, there were other red sparkling wine traditions such a brachetto. Again, according to Wikipedia, "Brachetto is a red Italian wine grape variety grown predominantly in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy. At one time the grape was thought to be related to the French wine grape Braquet, but recent thought among ampelographers is that the two are distinct varieties....At Canelli, on the border between the hills of Asti and the Langhe proper, the grape is known as Borgogna. The most notable wine here is the red Brachetto d'Acqui Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) which is made in both still and spumante (fully sparkling) versions. The Piemonte Brachetto Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), also a red wine, is made with a minimum of 85% Brachetto; it is usually still, but may be frizzante (lightly sparkling). Brachettos are terrific and well respected. Indeed, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast have both given Brachettos some great reviews and great scores. I love Brachetto, and so do a lot of other experienced wine drinkers.
Today's sparkling reds are not your grand-father's Cold Duck. I think part of the hate on Cold Duck was that is was based, in the American market, on Lambrusco and hybrids. So there was an automatic prejudice. As my friend Lenn Thompson of the Cork Report succinctly put it, "Hybrid based bubbles aren't the enemy anymore." And I whole heartedly agree. Anyone who tells you a wine based on a hybrid grape is not worth anything, because it's a hybrid, should not be considered a "qualified" wine writer. God forbid, considered an expert.
"Despite its relative underdog status compared to sparkling whites and rosés, sparkling red wines are made in nearly every major wine-producing country, from Australia to Slovenia," wrote Emma Manheimmer, in Imbibe Magazine. "Lambrusco—local to Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region and long dismissed as “pizza wine” (and what’s wrong with that?)—is perhaps the most famous of the bunch, but the options don’t end there.
Another entry would be Baga Espumante. Baga is a popular red grape in Portugal and the region produces many fine dry and semi-sweet sparking reds of high quality! It comes primarily in the Bairrada DOC. These wines are highly prized by aficionados and in what the old days would have been called "gourmands". However, the modern versions re quite exceptional.
What should you be drinking a sparkling red with? A cheese plate with charcuterie, salads, cold soups, chicken. It's the prefect lunch wine. Light and easy going. And today's sparkling reds are sophisticated and interesting. Here's a few you should be checking out.
La Garagista Ci Confonde
/Chi•con•fond•ay/. Rosso is among my favorites of La Garagista's wines. This wine is a Marquette pet nat, old-style… first fermentation in the bottle. Hand-harvested from their Vergennes vineyard in the Champlain Valley, and unfiltered, The wine is bottled shortly after harvest and left to finish under a crown cap. this alpine wine medium with notes of cherry and red currant. A big fruit forward nose. Lovely fizz. Wonderful! Personally, it's almost a sin to bunch this in, because this is an iconic wine. A truly exceptional wine.
Wild Arc Farm Piquette Cab Franc
Wild Arc Concord Carbonic Sparkling Wine
The Cabernet Franc made of pulp leftover from crushed grapes, later mixed to re-ferment in bottle with the wine made from the previously crushed grapes. Tart, fun, and unique. Deeper and funkier, black cherry fruit backed by forest floor and a touch of varietal greenness. Drinks like a lighter/drier Lambrusco. Great summer red frizzante. The Concord Carbonic is fruity and not too sweet. refreshing, and fizzy. A fun wine.
Paul Brady Rock and Roll Mouthwash
Our first custom pet nat! Made in collaboration with Finger Lakes winemaker Ben Ricardi of Osmote, this is dry Lambrusco in style, made from old vine Leon Millot and a new planting of Marquette from Cayuga Lake vineyards. It's one of their best cellars.
Barry Family Cellar’s Brian’s Bright Idea
A fun and lively bubbly beverage with equal parts fruity and savory notes. It's made from Cabernet Franc and Concord. Ideal for summer cookouts and holiday gatherings. I love this wine!
Charlie & Echo Darkstar
This wine comes from San Diego County, California. Charlie & Echo make Darkstar with regional zinfandel and syrah grapes. "We press the grapes before primary fermentation is done," says Charlie & Echo owner and winemaker Eric Van Drunen told Jill Barthe of Forbes magazine. "The wine finishes in a Charmat tank, where we capture the natural fermentation for the bubbles."
Solminer Nebullite Sparkling Red
This wine is made in the Los Olivos District, California. 100% biodynamically grown Syrah made in the Méthode Traditionnelle by one of the region's best boutique wineries. And it's certified organic!
Mumm Napa Cuvée M Red
Made in Napa Valley, California, this is a blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah. This one of Mumm's cutting edge releases, and has been very popular. Made in the Méthode Traditionnelle—the way Mumm makes is highest end quality wines.
Domaine Chandon Sparkling Red
Made from Pinot Noir and Zinfandel grapes. Sparkling Red is a made in the Méthode Traditionnelle. This is made using the same techniques and known how as they use for their classic wines. Exceptional.
The Bubble Shack Sibling Bubblery Sparkling Grenache
Made in Santa Barbara County, California, this is a terrific wine. The Bubble Shack in Los Olivos, is one of the wineries in the Fess Parker portfolio. This comes from the dynamic duo of Eli Parker and Ashley Parker Snider. This is made from Grenache from the famed Rodney's Vineyard at Fess Parker Winery's Santa Ynez Valley. The wine is barrel aged before its made into a sparkler.
Litten Buffel 'Mother Makes Glucose' Sparkling Red
The first fruit and grape hybrid wine we’ve seen from this winery. Starting with a field blend of grapes from the Bookwood vineyard in Niagara county. This is mixed with the juice of pears that’s fermented to full dryness before an addition of honey from Bookwood Homestead for a secondary ferment in bottle to finish as a dry sparkling red country wine. Again, we got only a mere case.
And one extra!
Beneduce Vineyard Chambursco
This is a sparkling red made from Chambourcin grapes. Slightly frizzante. One of my favorite of their funky cutting edge wines. A Pet Nat bottled while still fermenting, made with native yeasts. Fruity but dry. Great mouthfeel. Super wine.
Further reading (if you don't trust me):
Imbibe
VinePair
Forbes