Recently I had the good luck and fortune to host a wine tasting on behalf of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation. Always a big thrill. One of the wines at the tasting was the Silver Thread Vineyards Good Earth White Wine 2020, from the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Paul Brock
Winemaker and co-owner Paul Brock has a passion for keeping busy. When not out in the vineyard or in the cellar at Silver Thread, Paul is an Assistant Professor of Viticulture and Wine Technology at Finger Lakes Community College(FLCC) in Geneva, NY. He coordinates the A.A.S in Viticulture and Wine Technology degree program at FLCC, and advises around 50 students through the degree program.
As the winemaking consultant in the Finger Lakes for the Gotham Project, a company that primarily markets keg wine to New York City restaurants, Paul procures grapes and oversees their production at a neighboring winery. Previously, he worked as a commercial winemaker in both the Finger Lakes (Lamoreaux Landing, Ravines, and Keuka Lake Vineyards) and Marlborough, New Zealand (Whitehaven).
Paul has an M.S. in Enology and Viticulture from Cornell University and a B.S. in Chemical Engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. He has earned a wine judge certification from the American Wine Society and a level three Advanced Certificate in Wines and Spirits from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust of London. He has judged at several regional, state, and national wine competitions.
Paul is driven by his desire to learn about and explain classical and cutting edge techniques useful to small-scale winemaking and vineyard operations. In his spare time Paul can be found training for or competing in any of the area’s major triathlons.
Silver Thread Vineyard was established in 1982 on the eastern shore of Seneca Lake, at the heart of New York’s Finger Lakes region. At this location the bottom of the lake drops almost 200 feet below sea level, a dramatic mass of water that creates a distinct microclimate on the leeward (eastern) hillside — cooling breezes in summer, radiating warmth through the winter, and extending the length of the growing season. On this hillside 250 years ago, the Haudenosaunee (a.k.a. Iroquois) people tended huge peach orchards, a testament to this temperate ‘island’ within a cool region.
The winery is named for a local waterfall, Silver Thread Falls, known as one of the loveliest in the Finger Lakes. The turtle image on our label was carved in a rock beside one of New York’s woodland creeks by a Native American artist many centuries ago. As an earth symbol to the Haudenosaunee people, the turtle reminds us to care for the land and water that give us the gift of wine. This artifact is on display at the New York Botanical Garden in Bronx, NY.
Owner-winemakers Paul and Shannon Brock represent the new generation of young winemakers propelling the Finger Lakes region to prominence. At the helm of Silver Thread since 2011, the couple has shepherded the 40-year-old estate winery to new heights with a focus on expressive, terroir-driven
Riesling. Estate vines are farmed bio-intensively, a holistic, non-chemical approach. Small-batch wine production does not exceed 3,000 cases. The turtle image on their label is a local Native American artifact that reminds all to care for the land and water that give us the gift of wine. The hawk feather symbolizes how this wine powerfully conveys Paul and Shannon's story.
Good Earth White is a ripe, vibrant, aromatic blend that is balanced off-dry and provides an excellent introduction to the cool-climate Finger Lakes style. Based on Riesling, it includes other aromatic white grapes developed by Cornell University at their experimental vineyard (NY-81 and NY-45). These hybrid varieties provide a round, mouth-filling texture and is both fashionable and fun.
According to Paul, the 2020 growing season was unusually sunny and warm, with borderline drought conditions. Grapes achieved much higher sugar levels than normal, but retained lively acidity and freshness. The grapes were hand-harvested from multiple vineyard sites throughout the month of October, 2020. The wine rested for 3 months in neutral oak sur lie.
Fermentation choices are based on the qualities of each vineyard and its fruit. A diversity of approaches, including warm and cool fermentations, and native and cultured yeast are used across many small lots. Varietals were fermented separately, then blended and aged sur lie in neutral oak barrels for 3 months prior to bottling. Wines are never fined and minimal sulfites are added prior to bottling. A touch of residual sugar was achieved through arrested fermentation.
This wine was exceptional. Super ripe and vibrant notes of citrus and melon with touches of honey and peach with bright acidity. A lingering spiciness with hints of stone. The nose and front of the palate are both fruity. But this wine thaen descends into an elegant wine. Not packed with the usual acidity carried by Riesling or Gewurztraminer, this ine is more like a fine Tocai Friulano. Fruity enough to be a cocktail wine, but dry enough to serve with a wide variety of foods. This is an exceptional wine. Super sophisticated and complex. Wonderfully balanced. Layer with flavors and textures. Perfect for sipping or food.
LOVED this wine.
