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Tuesday, May 18, 2021

ABRAU-DURSO SPARKLING: FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

My sister-in-law Julianna is Russian, and brings back Russian wine every time she goes to visit her family. She has brought home a number of different wines, but the one she brings home most is Abrau-Durso. I am always happy to be invited over to their house after she has come home. She always brings home classic Russian caviar and Russian sparkling wine. Always excellent.

Russia at one time had a very large wine industry. In the 70s, there were more vineyards in the Soviet Union than in Spain - 350,000 hectares. The wine industry has experienced both ups and downs since then. But in the last 5-10 years, the Russian wine industry has made a huge comeback. Russian winemakers produce 800 million bottles of wine per year. They expect to rank on quality and quantity with the leading wine-producing countries such as Chile, Argentina, South Africa, and New Zealand. Obviously, much of the wine is consumed in Russia itself.  In the famous wine-growing village of Abrau-Durso, the largest exhibition of Russian wine in the country takes place. 



On 13th/25th of November, 1870, Emperor Alexander II ordered to found a wine estate between Lake Abrau and Durso River. The decree was signed only on February 3rd, 1871. Dmitry Pilenko, the first Governor of the Black Sea District, was entrusted with the management of Abrau-Durso estate (1867-1876). Abrau-Durso Group produces sparkling wines made by using the classic method and the Charmat method, still wines as well as cider, spirits, alcohol-free sparkling drinks and artesian water.


Abrau-Durso Group presents collections of the wineries Abrau Durso, Vedernikov Winery, Loza and is an official and exclusive distributor of Mionetto Prosecco, Henkell and Torley. In 2019, the Group’s sold 43.3 million bottles in total. Every year, wines from Abrau-Durso collections receive high awards at prestigious international tasting competitions such as International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), Decanter World Wine Awards, International Wine Challenge and Mundus Vini.

In 2020, Abrau-Durso turned 150. For 150 years, since Emperor Alexander II, sparkling wines, on par with the best wines of Champagne in terms of exquisiteness and complexity, have been made here. During the Tsar times, Abrau-Durso became renown thanks to the famous French Champagne maker Victor Dravigny, who even received two personal awards from Nicholas II.


During the Soviet times, Abrau-Durso sparkling wines were nationally acclaimed. Anton Frolov-Bagreev, a famous scientist and winemaker, was the pioneer of Charmat, the new manufacturing method which allowed preserving quality within large-scale production. The recent history and the rebirth of the estate started in 2006, when SVL Group headed by Boris Titov acquired it. Mr Titov was devoted to the idea of preserving and multiplying the traditions of the local winemaking and of the Russian sparkling wine. Using the experience and the knowledge of the previous generations, he resumed quality sparkling wine manufacturing in accordance with the highest international standards. The Russian Winehouse managed to preserve the heritage and to become the point of attraction for all lovers of wine and gastronomy tourism in Russia. They have 8 shops throughout Russia, including one in Moscow.



The wine maker at Abrau-Durso is Alexei Sidorenko. He is making exceptional sparkling wine.  I have been absolutely amazed by the quality and excellent of each of the wines I have tried from Abrau-Durso. Alexi will tell you, "There's no such rock anywhere in the terroirs of Krasnodar Krai. Our vine struggles to yield a harvest for us each year." According to Alexei, it's what makes their wines exceptional. In other words, wine is made in the vineyard. Still, his expert, guiding hand has been remarkable. 


Abrau-Durso Brute Rose 2015 is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A superb version of a pink brut made from Pinot Noir with an addition of Chardonnay. A sparkling wine of a delicate salmon shade with a bright coral sheen and an energetic play of small bubbles. Lovely notes of strawberries and  raspberries lead off the nose. Hints of citrus zest and spice. This sparkling wine is incredibly well structured. There's a perfect balance of yeast, fruit, acidity, and it's clear this wine is good for aging.  The finish is long-lasting, mineral, with pronounced soft tannins. This is as good as any champagne or sparkling you've had. Highly competitive. It goes wonderfully with caviar, but also with soft cheese and pate. Perfect with duck or sushi. steak or fried chicken! The perfect celebration wine. Fantastic!


Abrau-Dyurso "Blanc de Blancs" 2017 is made from 100% Chardonnay, using classic techniques and is aged in mountain tunnels for at least three years. To create this style, only Chardonnay grapes of exceptionally high quality are used, according to Alexei. A big nose of bread comes across the nose first. Lovely notes of apples and pears, tropical fruits, and citrus zest. A fine and graceful wine with a complex aroma of white flowers and fruits. The palate is round and delicate with an elegant long-lasting aftertaste. "Abrau-Durso Blanc de Blancs" is an absolutely fabulous classic sparkling wine. Absolutely competitive with France, US, Spain, etc. Incredibly high quality. 

These wines from Abrau-Durso are exceptional. You definitely want to try this stuff. Small quantities are available for sale in the US> Find them. They are worth the search!