Earlier this week I was fortunate enough to be able to host a tasting for the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, We featured five wines. One of them was so extremely different than anything else I had tasted, so much so, that I had to write about it first and immediately.
First off, what I really wanted to talk about was the team who made the wine! The dynamic duo behind this wine is head winemaker Kim Marconi and winemaker Paige Vinson. These are two young, dynamic winemakers, who really pulled off something unique, and quietly have been building a reputation for the wide range of wines they're called upon to produce, and the unique and high quality wines that they've been producing rather quietly.
Kim Marconi, head winemaker, left,
Paige Vinson, winemaker, right
Just two weeks before harvest began for the 2018 vintage, Kim White (now, Marconi) joined the production team at Three Brothers as Head Winemaker and Paige Vinson as Assistant Winemaker. The change came after Winemaker, Aaron Roisen announced his acceptance of a new position at Dr. Frank Winery.
Kim comes with an impressive resume including harvest experience in Washington State, Australia and France. Before joining the Three Brother’s team as Head Winemaker. Kim had previously also been the Assistant Winemaker at Sheldrake Point Winery.
“We’re thrilled to have Kim join our team. The professionalism and passion she shows for her craft are bar none” said Erica Paolicelli, Co-owner, “she’s enthusiastic and ready to make her mark in our region”.
Joining White in the cellar was Paige Vinson, who after years of home brewing, took the leap and joined the FLCC Wine, Enology and Viticulture program. After graduation, Vinson traveled to New Zealand, Australia and Oregon to work several harvests. She returned to NYS in 2015 to live and work in the Finger Lakes, the place she’s always called home.
“This duo is a dynamic, powerhouse and we couldn’t be more excited for their first vintage release” said Paolicelli. And I for one could not agree more. It is so refreshing to see such a dynamic duo in New York state.
Marconi and Vinson
The wine has a strange journey. Originally, this small production wine was released at part of Three Brothers Pilot Series, a series of experimental wines the winery issues. It was called Three Brothers Pilot Series Stir Crazy Valvin Muscat Sur Lie 2018. It was a small production release. But it gained almost immediate response from The Cork Report (review link below) for its surprising appeal.
Valvin Muscat is a relatively new grape. Valvin muscat was developed by grape breeder Bruce Reisch at the Cornell University New York State Agricultural Experiment Station and released on July 7, 2006. Valvin muscat is the result of a cross between Muscat Ottonel (vitis vinifera) and hybrid Muscat du Moulin (Couderc 299-35). It has distinct muscat (pronounced sweet floral) characteristics.
That said, Valvin Muscat is usually used to make semi-sweet and sweet dessert styled wines. But the team of Marconi and Vinson turned the grape on its proverbial head. This wine remained on lees with weekly batonnage for 8 months. It was then racked and filtered. Batoonage is the French term for stirring settles lees back into the wine. Lees are the sediment of winemaking usually made up of dead yeast cells and bits of grape seeds and other solids. The winemakers aimed to enhance fruit and varietal characters while building mouthfeel in a grape that sometimes lacks texture.
The 2019 edition of the wine received a change of name and label. The Three Brothers Stoney Lonesome Valvin Muscat Sur Lie 2019 was an eye opener. The resulting wine is intense. The nose and palate of this 100% Valvin Muscat is a dry white wine with a nose that explodes with ripe fruit - lemon verbena, clementine oranges, jasmine, honeysuckle, white peach, pineapple, and key lime. It's got 1% residual sugar which balances out with the terrific acidity very very well. The result is an outstanding dry white wine with incredible complexity and immense drinkability.
Absolutely impressive and fantastic! I can't wait to taste more from these two winemakers!