Peter Bell has outdone himself. For those of you who don't know, Peter Bell is the winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards. He's are erudite as Gore Vidal, and has a sense of humor like Buck Henry. Oh, and he plays banjo like Steve Martin. He happens to also be a terrific winemaker and mentor to it seems like almost anyone making wine in the northeast. Ever self-effacing, Bell gives a nod to Fox Run Assistant Winemaker Lindsey VanKeuren.
I tasted this wine at the Eastern Winery Exposition 2020 in Lancaster, PA.
First, let me geek out, and say how happy I they made this a vineyard designate wine. Truly the sign of confidence (in the vineyard and the winemaker), pride, and quality. This used to be called the Chardonnay Reserve. Nice, but a tad plainsong. However, nothing plainsong about Fox Run Chardonnay Reserve 2017 (it got a 90 from Wine & Spirit magazine). I prefer single vineyard designate because it is a stronger statement.
The Doyle Family Vineyard, sourced for previous vintages, is located on the east side of Seneca Lake and is one of the oldest plantings of the grape in New York State. The wine has traditionally had a touch of some other grape, Traminette in the past.
Fox Run Chardonnay Kaiser Vineyard 2018 is ethereal. It starts of with notes of tropical fruits and a big whollop of pear and bright green apple. Notes of lemon and vanilla and honeysuckle pervade. And the wine finishes with hints of mineral and a long, long bright citrus finish. Elegant. Bright. Complex. A whirlwind of smells and tastes, but all harmonic. Almost like Haydn's Water Music. A brilliant, brilliant wine. Exceptional!
Congrats to winemaker Peter Bell and owner Scott Osborn!