So in the spring of 2018 I went on a trek with David Flcheck of the American Wine society, and we stopped in at Boordy Vineyards. Boordy Vineyards has been a bellwether of Maryland wine for more than 75 years.
Originally founded by Baltimore Sun editor Philip Wagner, it has been brought brilliantly into the 21st century by owner and President Robert Deford and his wife Julie, and son Phineas. Rob’s sister Sally Deford Buck, who lives next to the vineyards with her husband Bayly, also participates. Four generations of the Deford family have lived and worked on the farm.
Where Wagner had led the country in winemaking and was a champion of hybrid grapes, Deford has been a classicist, bringing in classic vinifera, and changing the course of one of Maryland's oldest and biggest wineries. He's also been at the leading edge of land conservation as well. For me, this tasting was a watershed moment for Boordy. A number of vinifera that the Defords have been planting created a fully realized new line of wines. The transformation over the last fives to seven years has been nothing short of meteroic! And I might state instantly that this accomplishment puts Boordy back at the top of the quality wine producers on the east coast in a big way!
Myself, Phineas Deford, and David Falchek
I brought with me good friend David Falchek, who is the Executive Director of the American Wine Society. David is an avid promoter of worldwide wines, but also an enthusiastic cheerleader for east coast wine producers. He was eager to make the stop.
The first wine was the Boordy Pinot Gris 2016. This Pinot Gris was grown at their Long Green Vineyard and a portion of the fruit was from BirchView Vineyard in Hampsted, MD. The grapes were harvested September 8-10, 2016, with a Brix at Harvest of 21.8°. The wine was aged in stainless steel and bottled on March 16, 2017. They produced 1346 cases. That represents a very large planting, and a sizable investment. The result was amazing. A lovely floral bouquet accompanied grapefruit and pear, with a small assist of green apple. This was a delicate, lovely white wine, with a big, sexy dollop of citrus and a refreshing ending. A lovely, lovely Pinot Gris!
The Boordy Vineyards Albarino 2016 South Mountain Vineyard was a complete surprise. In 2012 Boordy planted Albariño on a southeast facing hillside at their South Mountain Vineyard in Frederick County. The grapes ripen about mid-September. According to the winery, the wine is cool fermented in stainless steel tanks and bottled early to capture its freshness. They make approximately 800-900 cases each year. Again, that's a sizable amount! As advertised, the nose is a giant burst of orange blossom and apricots. The wine has a lot of pop, and the acidity is bursting, but never so much that the wine becomes one dimensional. Nicely layered. Its an exciting, refreshing, delicious wine that is very, very impressive. Amazing!
The Boordy Dry Rose 2016 was conceived in the Provencal style, using the classic saignée (bleeding) technique where a percentage of grape juice is drained from the red fermenter after brief contact with the skins. The result is lovely! All five varieties that that they grow for their Landmark reds contribute to the Dry Rosé blend. Strawberry and bright young cherry pop out of the glass, with hints of lime and cream. Tropical notes as well. The wine follows the same route on the palate. Straight forward, yet balamnced and complex. A lovely acidity keeps the fruit going for a long time in the mouth. A very pretty wine!
The Boordy Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve 2015 South Mountain Vineyard was made exclusively from chardonnay grown in the "dry bench" section of their South Mountain Vineyard. The wine was fermented and aged in one and two year old French oak barrels for five months. They produced 252 cases. Pineapple, fresh apple and pears, grapefruit and lime finaly give way to more tropical notes, as well as that of apricots. The fruit up front when tasting was all ripe pears and apples,that slowly gave way to a tart citrus moment, and then a creamy soft finish. Absolutely lovely!!!
The Boordy Abarino Reserve 2016 South Mountain Vineyard was a complete surprise! It was made from grapes grown in the “Dry Bench” area of their South Mountian Vineyard. According to the winery, it is a low-fertility section of the vineyard where the stressed grapevines produce fruit of extraordinary flavor. The grapes were pressed, and the juice was fermented and aged in Burgundian oak barrels for six months.They made 250 cases. Where the Albarino stainless steel was a classic version of the varietal wine, the Albarino Reserve was something amazing. Aromas of fresh peach juice, orange and pear blossom and wet stone all come through as promised. However, this Albarino Reserve is more refined, more complex, with many many more layers, and more austere too. Almost something Arbois-ish about it. Simply amazing!
The Boordy Merlot 2014 South Mountain Vineyard is approximately about 76-70% merlot, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, syrah, and something Boordy refers to as heavy press. The wines is aged in about 40% new French oak, and the remainder in older French oak barrels.Black cherry and graphite start the attack on the nose. A stewed red fruits, chocolate and cassis all come through. The trace of French influence is unmistakable, as there are notes of cedars and other earthy overtones. But the fruit holds forth, and is big on the attack on the palate. Lots of lovely red fruit. Cocoa and mineral are solid in the middle. Lovely tannins and nice acidity round out the wine, with a loely lingering of ripe cherry. Fabulous!
The Boordy Mountain Red 2015 was made with grapes harvested between October 18-29, 2015. It is a blend of 69% merlot, 13% cabernet franc, 12% syrah, and 6% cabernet sauvignon. It was aged in 20% new French oak, and 80% older French oak. And it was bottled on March 7, 2017. They produced 840 cases. This is an easy drinking red. Low tannins, and fresh fruit make it approachable and easy to drink. Bright tart cherries and plums. Hint of eucalyptus. Easy smooth finish. Nice, long lasting bright red fruit. Very lovely!
The transformation is nothing but remarkable, and is what all the wineries on the east coast who are attempting transformation or growth of any size, should be looking for. I have always thought the world of Rob Deford. His vision, leadership, and his willingness to chat with almost anyone on Maryland and east coast wine, has made him one of the most invaluable winemakers and owners on the east coast! He, his son Phineas, his family, and staff have executed one of the most impressive transformations in the wine industry I have seen on the east coast. They have gone from a good producer to a leading producer. So so impressive on so many levels.
My previous article on Boordy Vineyards:
http://eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com/2013/05/boordy-from-behind-giants-shadow.html