Friday, June 09, 2017
In March of 2017 I went to a great mid-Atlantic wine tasting organized by Paul Vigna, a terrific mid-Atlantic wine writer. The wines featured were among the best on the entire seaboard. One of the ones feature was Crow Vineyards of Maryland.
Roy and Judy Crow, owners of the beautiful 365-acre working farm located in Kennedeyville, MD, have succeeded in implementing sustainable changes to their third generation family farm by adding new opportunities for growth while still preserving its original flavor.
A new business plan allowed for farming operations to be expanded beginning with the renovation of their 1847 family farmhouse into the Crow Farmstay B&B. This change created a communal feel, giving people a firsthand experience of farm operations, such as corn production, angus beef, small flock of chickens, hay, etc.
A movement in Kent County promoting grape growing to farmers in the area prompted the Crows to begin their next development.
“We knew that growing grapes was something that would fit well with our overall business plan,” said Roy Crow, which then expanded the business to include vineyard manager son Brandon Hoy, Schmidt Vineyard Management Company to help guide operations, ShoreVines as a valuable promotion partner, as well as becoming members of the Maryland Grape Growers Association. All of these additions led to the planting of 3 ½ acres in 2010 contributing towards the production of wine.
The Crow Vineyards Sparkling Vidal Blanc 2014 was produced using the traditional méthode champenoise. The wine is made from Clone 256 on Rootstock 3309, on Matapeake Silt Loam, 5-120 ft elevation, on 5-10% slopes at the Crow Vineyard, Kent County, Maryland. Harvested in September. The wine went through primary fermentation in stainless steel, and was followed by a secondary fermentation in bottle. It was then aged for 13 months before being hand disgorged in small lots, then hand corked, caged and labeled.
This was a spectacular sparkler!!! The first whiff was a of fresh baked bread. Then, lots of tropical fruit such as pineapple, lychee, as well as traditional stone fruit like red ripe apples, and a hint of honeysuckle. Across the palate baked apple led the way, with peach and apricot in close support, followed by a nice minerality and a lovely citrus ending. Excellent!
The Crow Vineyards Barbera Rosé 2015 is made from Clone VCR 15 grown on Rootstock 101-14, in Matapeake Silt Loam, 5-120 ft. elevation, on 5-10% slopes at the Crow Vineyard, Kent County, Maryland. It was hand harvested on September 24 and 28, 2015, and was bottled April 26, 2016, and aged 3 mos prior to release. 122 cases were produced.
This was another lovely surprise! Fresh strawberry and red currant were complimented by a lovely floral bouquet. Across the palate cam mango, oranges, and peaches with a lovely citrus ending and a hint of cream. Silky smooth and refreshing!!!!!
Katrina Jordan was the winemaker at Crow at the time, and deserved a ton of credit for these fine wines. She has since moved on, having traveled across the country to California where she now works for Jackson Family.
Friday, June 02, 2017
I hate award shows. The "banter" is so painfully scripted, that it's hard to watch without wincing. And I cannot sit there and watch a bunch of unqualified fashionistas pick apart some of the worst gowns and displays of bad taste as some industry or another pats itself on its own back. Ugh!
On the other hand, I cannot lie, I love when someone walks up through the audience, with the theme song from their film blaring, and jogs up onto the stage to accept their award. I have an affinity for Henry Mancini and John Williams....I know...you can laugh at me now.
Cue the music....
For anyone seriously following East Coast winemaking there can be no question that the Outer Coastal Plain has become one of the premier AVAs on the Atlantic seaboard.
More and more and more it boasts a lineup of seriously good wine that belongs in any conversation about fine wine.
Never heard of the outer coastal Plain? It's an official designated AVA and it is in New Jersey!!!
It must be pointed out that the first company to call out the AVA on its label on a serious bottle of wine that got attention was Tomasello. Give credit where credit is due.
The Outer Coastal Plain AVA is an American Viticultural Area located in southeastern New Jersey. The 2,250,000 acres (911,000 ha) wine appellation includes all of Cumberland, Cape May, Atlantic, and Ocean counties and portions of Salem, Gloucester, Camden, Burlington, and Monmouth counties. The region is characterized by well-drained sandy or sandy loam soils of low to moderate fertility, and a relatively long growing season. The climate is moderated by the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay. The region is in hardiness zones 6b, 7a, and 7b. Many wineries located in southern New Jersey within this AVA are members of the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association.
As of 2014, there are 28 wineries in the Outer Coastal Plain AVA. Most of the wineries in this AVA are also members of the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association, an industry trade organization "dedicated to the establishment and promotion of sustainable and economically viable viticulture in the Outer Coastal Plain AVA of New Jersey.
Some of my favorite wines in New Jersey are being made there by Heritage Vineyards, Turdo, Coda Rossa, Belleview Vineyard, Hawk Haven, Tomasello, Auburn Road, and many others.
Especially given recent samplings of Heritage, Turdo, Coda Rossa, and Bellview it's very clear that the region can grow wine grapes that can compete anywhere.
Auburn Road's Eidolon is an exquisite white wine of the highest quality!
Cue the music....the winemakers of the Outer Coastal Plain deserve to make their acceptance speech and take their bow. They have arrived!
Thursday, June 01, 2017
Mark Twain once said, the coldest winter he ever spent, was a summer in San Francisco. Friend Rich Srsich and I felt the same way while driving on a dreary Memorial Day Monday just last week, when a friend suggested we make the trek to see Joe Messina over at Amorici Vineyard. In fact, this winemaker insisted we tell Joe that he was coming to dinner.
Joe Messina is a fascinating character. He is at heart an artist and an entertainer. He is a salesman, a chef, and artist, and a teller of tall tales all rolled into one. He is always among the biggest characters in the room, and you always get the impression Joe could sell you the Brooklyn Bridge if he truly wanted to. But he has too much living to do to be bothered. When we walked in and I took off my cap, his jaw nearly hit the floor. I have known Joe eight or nine years, and we love to chat, but I had never been to his place. I felt truly badly that it had taken me this long. Actually, I was embarrassed to show up, it had been such a long time. Of course, Joe dismissed those feelings immediately, and gave me a great big hug!
My friend Rich and myself were worried that Joe might not even be opened. His place is set far back from the main roads, but there were people already there, and more came in while we visited. All this on the rainiest Memorial Day Monday in recent memory. Joe credited the newest edition of Southern Saratoga magazine which had recently published a flattering story on the unique trattoria/winery.
The article talked about how visiting Joe's establishment was like discovering a small Italian farm in your own neighborhood. And the best part? We had no idea Joe had been either an accomplished chef, much less such a talented winemaker. But there he was in his chef whites, greeting us heartily!
Joe insisted that we order something from his menu He has a tavern license as well as a winery. So in the winery there are plenty of tables, and in fact, several of the customers came in for a lunch or dinner, and of course order wine with their meals. We ordered our meals, and then began our tasting.
The first wine we had was a shocker, and set the tone for the rest of the tasting. A dry Cayuga white wine that was a big, grapefruit, citrus bomb! Amazing! Albarino move over! This was a tasty, acidic, fun white!
Next was the Capriccio Allegro Chardonnay 2015. This wine is made using 50% chardonnay grapes from the Finger Lakes, and 50% chardonnay from Long Island. It was a mineral-y, dry white with apples and pears and tropical fruit. Stainless steel driven, this wine was bright with acidity and a lovely, citrus white that had a nice, creamier finish. He has the wine with the Capriccio Allegro label which he uses for a local restaurant, but he sells the same wine using his own label as well.
The Riesling 2015 dry white wine was a a lovely surprise as well. And even made, well crafted dry Germanic-styled white with lovely tropical fruits, and a bone, bone dry finish.
The Amorici Cabernet Franc 2012 was grown in the Finger Lakes and was a soft, lush easy drinking red with no herbaceousness at all. Very lovely.
The Amorici Marquette NOR 2015 is 100% estate grown red and was an absolute shocker! While I have tasted good Marquette, it's not always an easy feat. This was terrific! This wine had big fruit up front. Stewed red fruit, with prominent notes of strawberry and plum. Nice balance of acidity and tannins. Some nice minerality. An impressive wine. Truly amazing.
Amorici Vino Della Famiglia is a fun red classico-styled blend Joe makes for a local restaurant. It's a fabulous, medium bodied red meant for meals and family. And I loved the fact that he packaged a small part of the run in the old fashioned Chianti backet-styled bottles! Suddenly, I started humming Scenes From An Italian Restaurant by Billy Joel. A very fun touch!
Slowly, the dreary, rainy, cold weather, winter's last great grasp of Spring's throat, was fading away, and we were easily transported to sunny Italy. It felt like you were in some country-side trattoria, eating Italian food and drinking wine. Suddenly, it all seemed sunny, and beautiful!
A note from a satisfied customer.
After lunch we tried two digestifs. The first was one of my favorite grappas on the whole eastern seaboard - Amorici Grappa which is distilled from Joe's wine by Yankee Distillers, in nearby Clifton Park, NY. I have raved about it before. I knew what we were in for. It is light, super, super smooth, with a slightly floral nose and doesn't leave a horrible burn. This is great tasting grappa. Fantastic!!!
The second after dinner wine we had was the Amorici Vneyard Tawney Vintage Sweet Wine which is a slightly sherry-style apple honey wine. I was a tad skeptical. SOunded like an apple honey wne that had gone back. Some kind of wacky experiment. I was pleasantly surprised! It was a beautiful, light sherry-styled wiwne with a big nose of apple and honey, yet balance nicely by the classic sherry notes. It was only slightly sweet, not cloyingly so. A very nice surprise to end the meal with!
Another absolute secret weapon Joe has at his disposal are Brian and Robyn! Brian makes the wine with Joe and Robyn took us through our tasting. These were incredibly hospitable and friendly folks. Down to earth, friendly, chatty, and knowledgeable. They made the experience so much more enjoyable, and their sunny dispositions set the tone for our visit far away from the gray, watery world outside.
Rich and I were loathe to leave our little Italian idyll. It had been a last minute stop, turned into an extremely fun afternoon! It was great to see Joe and taste his wines, but the real treat was the complete experience we were able to enjoy at Amorici Vineyard, and both Rich and I agreed, with apologies to Mark Twain, our visit to Amorici Vineyard had been the sunniest rainy day I had ever spent!
Go up and see Joe and tell him I sent you! Buona fortuna!