Recently esteemed wine educator and writer Ed McCarthy (Wine
for Dummies with Mary Ewing-Mulling, among many others) wrote the seminal piece
on a trend that has been developing in the wine industry over the last three or
four years – the pendulum in the US among wine aficionados and foodies is
swinging back from big, powerful, West Coast styled wine to a more reserved
palate more on par with German, Italy, and France, citing a love of cool
climate wines. There is no question this trend is in full swing and still has
lots of momentum to go. Ed is 100% right on the money! Bravo for the essay. It’s
right on the spot.
Here’s a small sample, but I do recommend you read the whole
U.S. East Coast versus West Coast Palate
29, 2013 Wine Review Online
there a difference in the palates of wine drinkers living on the East Coast of
the U.S. as opposed to those west of the Mississippi River, especially those on
the West Coast? In other words, does
geography make a difference in wine tasting?
by my own experience and observation, I believe that many wine drinkers living
in the East Coast cities, such as New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and
Washington D.C., do taste and/or appreciate wines differently from those on the
West Coast. Not really because of their
different geographic locations, of course, but more so because of the wines
that each group has been exposed to in their environment.
example, let’s consider the columnists of our own publication, Wine Review
Online. It is no coincidence that the
three columnists on the East Coast, Michael Apstein, Michael Franz, and I,
write primarily about European wines, especially those from France and
Italy. And conversely, those columnists
living in California write mainly about California wines.
all tend to write about what we know and like.
Many of us on the East Coast have had more exposure to French, Italian,
and Spanish wines than those from California, and we have formed our own
are fundamental differences in the mainly cool-climate wines of Europe--also
known in wine parlance as Old World wines—than in the warmer-climate wines of
California, South America, and Australia, the so-called New World wines.
read the rest at:
Now, I have met Ed. Had dinner with him and Mary. I have
tremendous respect for him, and I would posit that he is probably one of the
two best experts on Champagne in the world. I would love to work with Ed
someday. Ed has forgotten more about wine than I know. He has a excellent wit, and is a wonderful dinner companion. And he has devoted his life to studying and understanding and teching wine. And he’s not the only
one saying these things. Dan Berger recently spoke and has written about the
trend swinging back towards more balanced, cool climate wines. Hooray! Truly, I
am thrilled Ed wrote the article.
But here’s where I have an issue: Ed, what about east coast
WINE? Where is the love? There are more than 800 wineries on the east coast. Nothing of the Finger Lakes?
The North Fork? The Hudson Valley or Niagara? How about Virginia? Perhaps I am only splitting hairs, but at the
same time I feel like I must amend Ed's article just a touch...My word isn't as good as Ed's (I mean that, he is a brilliant wine expert...and I do mean expert), I'm not even the Sorcerer's apprentice.
Chardonnay from Long
Island is every bit as exquisite as that of Burgundy. The Pinot Noirs of New
York and Virginia are improving daily, and can compete without question. And
the elegant red Meritages and blends being produced by those states also are
producing wines that show sophistication and complexity, as well as promise.
So here’s a recommendation. Instead of walking in and asking
for a cool climate wine, and letting some wine shop steward steer you to the
French or Italian section, insist on trying a cool climate LOCAL wine.
Pinot Noirs such as McGregor, Heart & Hands, McCalls, Tousey,
Millbrook, Whitecliff, Rooster Hill, Oak Summit, Red Tail Ridge, Jamesport,
Unionville, Brotherhood, Shaw, Ravines, Dr. Konstantin Frank, Arrowhead
Springs, Billsboro, and Baco Noirs such as Benmarl and Hudson-Chatham. Or red
blends from Bedell, Wolffer, Valhalla, Barboursville, The Winery at La Grange,
Black Ankle, Boxwood, or Pellegrini, just to name a few.
And light whites? Try Chardonnays, Riesling, and Viogniers
from Unionville, Sherwood House, One Woman, Channing Daughters, Pellegrini
Vineyards, Roanoke Vineyards, Chateau LaFayette Reneau, Rooster Hill Vineyards,
Bedell Cellars, Red Tail Ridge Winery, Peconic Bay Winery, Lamoreaux Landing, Macari
Vineyards, Wolffer Estate, Fox Run Vineyards, Whitecliff Vineyard, Hermann
Wiemer Vineyard, Channing Daughters, Heron Hill, Bedell Cellars, Barboursville,
Breaux, Tarara, Jefferson Vineyards, Veritas, King Family, Monticello, and
And tell them that Ed sent you (and keep reading his articles on Wine Review Online), because it was indeed his idea, but that Carlo made the recommendations (like I matter...lol!).
And show the east coast some love!!!