Recently I wrote of a run my brother-in-law Robin Hoover and
I made down to the wine cellar Thanksgiving Day evening, to choose among my
older dessert wines to sip in front of the fireplace. One of the several bottles
I pulled was a Heron Hill Late Harvest Riesling 2002.
I have tasted a lot of Heron Hill it seems to me this year.
But that’s not a bad thing, in fact, I think it’s a good thing. I like what
they are doing. The whites are crisp and clean, and the reds are bright and
with nice fruit and solid structure. And the addition of Bernard Cannac to this
winery instantly made an impact on the wines coming out. There’s no doubt you
can taste and appreciate his influence. There’s lots of exciting stuff going on
over at Heron Hill.
But in tasting this wine, this is a look backwards…into
their past. And one of the things that Heron Hill has always been able to do is
to make great late harvest and ice wines. So I was excited to try this Heron
Hill Late Harvest Riesling 2002.
The wine was light golden in color. It was sultry in the
glass, swirling slowly, coating the inside of the bowl with its sweet, luscious
fingers. It’s not a super thick wine like an ice wine. And it’s not as sweet
either. There is the hint of orange marmalade and some hints of citrus along
with honey and apricot. I read somewhere that there was quince? I have to say
that did come through. On the palate was a nice, soft acidity helped balance
the wine as well. This is an extremely lovely wine. Again. Not the heavy, sweet
bomb, but a more refined, elegant dessert wine.