Monday, July 11, 2011

Howard G. Goldberg Raves About Long Island Rose's in the NY Times

Season of the Grill, and Rosés
Published: July 1, 2011
New York Times

Colorful dry rose's match barbecued ribs and grilled foods like salmon, tuna steaks, lobster, chicken, hot dogs and shish kebabLike summer flowers, colorful dry rosés — pink, coral, salmon, near-red, almost orange — abound at East End wineries.

Since they taste like quasi-reds and quasi-whites, they match barbecued baby back ribs and grilled foods like salmon, tuna steaks, lobster, chicken, hot dogs and shish kebab.

When temperatures soar, these rosés are lighter, more versatile and more refreshing than reds. Broadly speaking, they are redolent of cherries, raspberries and watermelon.

With exceptions — like the stylish, sparkling 2007 Noblesse Oblige ($37) and the 2010 Grandioso ($29) from Wölffer Estate, in Sagaponack — rosés can be drunk from tumblers and even plastic glasses without offending wine snobs.

The dominant pinot noir in Noblesse Oblige, a serious bubbly, imparts sophistication; chardonnay gives it bounce; and a splash of merlot rounds it out. The tiny invigorating bubbles propel a briochelike flavor, and the finish lingers.

The congenial Grandioso gets its depth and breadth from merlot and cabernet franc, and a measure of its finesse from a small amount of chardonnay.

The graceful, delicate 2010 edition of Wölffer’s regular rosé ($16), a perennial favorite among consumers for many years, resembles tangy counterparts native to Mediterranean France. Roman Roth made lots of it: 9,070 cases.

Taste Rosé ($18) from Bedell Cellars, in Cutchogue, is light and brisk. Its individual style is partly shaped by small percentages of syrah and petit verdot, which support plenty of merlot and a good bit of cabernet franc.

By contrast, the lively 2010 rosé ($17.50) from Clovis Point, in Jamesport, comes only from cabernet franc; it offers a sweet, fruity scent and a nip of lemonlike flavor at the end. The light, brisk 2010 rosé by Shinn Estate Vineyards($15), in Mattituck, has, uncommonly, a rhubarblike edge.

One surprise: the 2010 De Rosa rosé ($18) from Roanoke Vineyards, in Riverhead, is so savory it can be drunk at room temperature.

Read the whole thign at: