Saturday, November 11, 2006

Howard G. Goldberg Raves About Macari's Early Wine in New York Times

Published: November 11, 2006
New York Times

MACARI VINEYARDS’ 2006 Early Wine, a chardonnay, exudes the bright fruitiness found in Beaujolais nouveau, which is scheduled to appear in stores and restaurants on Thursday.

Fermented from Mattituck grapes picked on Sept. 17, and released on Oct. 23, Early Wine also evokes the joie de vivre of freshly minted whites known as Jungwein (Young Wine) found in heurigen, the Austrian wine taverns that open around the harvest. That’s because Early Wine, now in its fourth vintage, was created by Helmut Gangl, a vintner in the Burgenland region of Austria who serves as a part-time consulting winemaker at Macari, on the North Fork.

Since Burgenland is dessert-wine territory, it wasn’t surprising that previous vintages of Early Wine contained a slight sweetness. Such sweetness will not be found in the 2006 edition ($14.99). This beguiling wine is startlingly dry, and its tangy aftertaste goes on and on.